Day 15 - Temora Historic Railway Museum and Temora Aviation Museum & Home

Friday 20 March 2020

It’s a shortish drive home today, only 4 hours or so and I’m reasonably inclined to just go straight home this morning, especially as it’s another hot day, roughly 15 Celcius hotter than I prefer when out and about. But I’ve wanted to spend a little time in Temora for ages. I just haven’t got to it because it feels so close to home. I decide to just sus things out and make a call based on the set up and visitor numbers.

Temora Railway Museum

First stop is the Temora Railway Museum. Parking is easy and the beautiful heritage station building is schmick. I wander in and chat briefly with the trio of volunteers in the entry room. I can have a guided tour, but given the pandemic, I opt to just wander around on my own. I know a fair bit about railways so I don’t need a lot of interpretation to understand what I’m seeing. The displays and presentation is simply outstanding. Signs tell of heritage awards received and it’s really not at all surprising. My favourite item of all is the story of Boofhead, the Temora railway dog. Everything about the story sings of the love that Temora had for this jaunty little dog during his life and the decades beyond. His story would make a good movie, it’s got everything, drama, romance the lot.

Heading out through the “chat room” I get talking with the three blokes. I hear tell of the process of cleaning up the station from its derelict state and the many truckloads of dead pigeons that had to be disposed of. I am astonished. To look at it now you would never in a million years think that it had been in such a state. People have donated many of the items on display. In better times, the guided tour would definitely be the way to go and if they don’t mention it, be sure and ask about the process of establishing the museum, it’s a very interesting and impressive story. Even without the guided tour I didn’t find it at all difficult to spend an hour, but would recommend longer to read the interesting information boards.  I'm chronically distracted at the moment so I photograph the panels to read later. In cooler weather, walking around the block on the railway heritage trail, you’d probably want another hour at least.

There’s a handy free camp area adjacent to the Railway Museum, beautiful level sealed ground and there’s a lovely green outlook to the park. On the edge of the park, there’s a sound shell where the campers congregate to talk in wet weather but it’s not big enough to meet demand so the Railway Museum volunteers are converting a shed to provide another pleasant space for similar use.

Next of course, I have to go and take a look at the famous Temora Aviation Museum. There was supposed to be a flying day this weekend, which perhaps explains why the accommodation in Temora was pretty full when I was looking for a room at short notice. The pandemic has meant they have cancelled the flight day. Today there’s almost no one on site.

Temora Aviation Museum

I stop to read the sign at the entrance about Covid-19, and behaviour required in line with social distancing. I am encouraged to start my visit with the short video that explains how the museum came to be. It provides important background information and it is simply astonishing what a fantastic, community driven museum has been built. Aviators do tend to be very passionate about the aviation, but still.

I am happy to see the information board on the RAAF in the Korean War, historically often an under-represented conflict in museums.

Listening stations provide an opportunity to listen to oral history from veterans who have a connection to the aircraft on display. There’s quite a large amount of material to listen to, so that could really consume a lot of time if you settle down in that area. No wonder this place is well known, of course it is with its biennial War Birds Downunder air show which is next scheduled for October 2020. Now in doubt of course due to the pandemic.

Cessna A37B Dragonfly - well named!

Every plane on site is kept operational and they have some remarkable historic planes all displayed in immaculate spaces with fascinating details about the operational usage of each.

I don’t have the luxury of spending as long as I like today unfortunately, none-the-less, I’m happily occupied for about an hour and a half and I’m glad to have gone ahead and visited.

A quick reccie out to Lake Centenary which is a fairly young recreation area, there’s a playground with shade sail, but shade trees that have been planted have some growing to do.

Time now to get on the road, I’m already expecting not to be home until after 6:30 pm so I need to make tracks.

I love driving and exploring, Temora to home is not new territory for me, but it’s an enjoyable drive through what I think of as “home territory” and after such a long while on my own, it feels good to be home in NSW in a landscape I know and love.

I stop and revive at Binalong when I come to the grave of Johnny Gilbert, accessible via some stairs from the roadside parking bay. Gilbert was a bushranger, basically just a wrongun’ he joined Ben Hall’s gang as part of his short life of reckless criminality.

From Binalong it’s straight home to crawl under my rock, just in time for growing application of increasing restrictions on movement imposed for response to the Covid-19 pandemic. It’s clear I made the right choice to turn for home when I did.

Day 14 - Mathoura, Murray Valley National Park, Deniliquin, Shan's Diner's Choice Restaurant Temora

Thursday 19 March 2020

I’m slow to get away thismorning, gradually getting myself organised and trying to decide what direction to head from here. Chatting with the old guy with a bandaged leg that sits at a little table just near my car. I’ve been to Echuca several times, so although I love Echuca and the Historic Port area, not to mention the Read Heeler bookstore, keen to get home and to be seeing new things on the way, I decide to head on my way across the Murray River into New South Wales.

Heading across the river I’m on the Long Paddock Touring Route, so I make a point of stopping at the Long Paddock information bays to read stories of the local area, tussles for control of key routes and squatter’s runs, now long gone bush pubs and what is described as bribery but seems more like extortion applied to drovers travelling through these frontier routes to market.

Cod at Mathoura  - species indeterminate based on the signs at Picnic Point!

 The Murray wriggles it’s way north for a while in this area towards the town of Mathoura. Like a fish in a race, I’m caught at the point of a sculpture of a giant fish strategically located on the Cobb Highway at the turn down into Murray Valley National Park.

Canoe Tree, Gulpa Creek Drive

Having admired the sculpture and the artwork on the sewer pump station nearby, I decide to explore into the national park.  An enticing dirt road temps a turn and I cruise along Gulpa Creek to Gulpa Island. The forest is very dry and the scenery unchanging and although the satnav suggests I can eventually reach my destination this way, I turn back to the sealed road. The most interesting sight so far has been the ancient canoe tree.

The boardwalk at Reed Beds Bird Hide

Next stop is the Reed Beds Bird Hide.  I pass by the electric bbqs and picnic tables and head for the boardwalk out to the bird hide. Along the boardwalk information stations have been installed that identify local birds and provide a recording of their bird call, which is so handy for children or people who are not experienced birdwatchers. In the forest cut out silhouettes of various birds have been placed to pleasing effect.

Reed Beds Bird Hide, Murray Valley National Park

The bird hide itself is impressive and has two levels. As I reach a position where you look out over the wetland I gasp at the loveliness of the scene and am transported in my mind back to Kakadu and the views over the wetlands there. This is every bit as impressive. Perhaps this is to be expected given that these wetlands are protected under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands Treaty and other bilateral treaties with countries who share responsibility for the migratory bird species tht rely on these breeding grounds. At the moment the water is a long distance from the hide itself but when the plain floods and triggers a breeding event, this place will come alive. Today there’s just a White Bellied Sea Eagle hunting over the wetland.

Walking back along the boardwalk, honeyeaters are foraging in the trees and fairy wrens are piping to each other in the undergrowth. This is a beautiful place. I will definitely be watching for the next flood event to come down here again.

Emus along Picnic Point Road

Time is a ticking away, but I continue on to check out Picnic Point and find myself at a Caravan Park and boat ramp with a nearby pub/venue on the banks of the river near where the Kolety (Edward River) joins the Murray. It’s a pretty peaceful spot. Looking from the sandy river beach across the water to Victoria’s Barmah National Park, the Murry River itself is in NSW, Victorian jurisdiction starts from the southern bank of the river.

The Murray River at Picnic Point, NSW. Barmah National Park, Victoria on the other side of the water

I wish I had a little kayak to paddle away on one of the canoe trails in the national park. I’ve been enjoying my time in Murray Valley NP very much but I’ve let the morning completely slip away and I still have a long way to go.
Another Long Paddock site at the information centre in town, and more beautiful public art to admire. It's a shame it's so hot today. It doesn't encourage lingering outdoors.

Drover and Horse, by Cory Thomas. The style is inspired by the artwork of Russell Drysdale

Next break from the car is taken at Deniliquin at the Long Paddock site. We saw the Deni Water Tower Mural and admired the community facilities, swimming centre, playground and parks in February so there’s no need to explore those this time.  The old iconic Kingswood Ute mounted in tribute to the Deni Ute Muster seems dripping in Pathos given the recent demise of car manufacturing and now even the Holden brand in this country.

Deniliquin, Ute Capital of the World

I’ve left the car running while I just take a couple of quick photos. It’s a hot day so I don’t plan to be long, but I’m tempted to explore a bit further, drawn towards the Kolety and the revegetation project explained on the information panels.  Once again, I’m struck by the fact that in the last decade or so, while some in public life indulge in racist dog whistling, communities around the country are quietly getting on with reconciliation, sharing cultural knowledge, acknowledging traditional owners and trying to improve the way the entire community cares for country. There’s plenty more to see in Deni when next we pass this way.

Kolety (Edward River) at Deniliquin

It’s still 3 ½ hours to Temora where I plan to stay tonight, so the rest of the afternoon is spent enjoying the open road and checking into my accommodation.  Dinner is at the highly recommended Shan’s at the bowling club. A chilled bottle of water without having to ask for it is always a good sign. It’s a delicious meal, with a pleasant ambience and uncrowded arrangement of tables. The food is high end in style but with very large portions. The positive recommendations are perfectly warranted. ThoughI think that this style of food is best in smaller portions leaving room for the whole three courses, but I guess sometimes it's necessasry to adapt to the expectations of the clientelle. 

Day 13 - Djuirite (Mt Arapiles), Natimuk, Murtoa, Tarnagulla and Bridgewater

Wednesday 18 March 2020

Thismorning I wake up, check the news and the urge to head home is overpowering. The balance on the pandemic’s progress in Australia is tipping and it’s time to draw a line under this walkabout. I’m on the road by about 7 am, enjoying the early morning drive. I don’t really have a firm agenda I’ve just told PRB to take me home and I’ll ad lib along the way.

My friends and I have been very much enjoying the whole “Silo Art” phenomenon and the ever growing abundance of art in small country towns. Perhaps an upside of initiatives that have been undertaken to support communities and diversify regional economies during periods of drought. Innovation and opportunities seized have created a nationwide canvas of creativity, even in the tiniest villages.

Big Fish at Edenhope, Victoria

 My first stop for some art appreciation is at Edenhope, where I pull over to capture the large metal fish sculpture, I look but can’t see any interpretive signage, but the fish shines in the early morning light. Exotic street trees are starting to colour with bright red.

Along the Wimmera Highway

A little way along the road I’m moved by beauty and am moved to pull over and capture the scene. There’s not much in the way of traffic and I enjoy some time out of the car just soaking in the quiet rural scene. Overnight rain has left a freshness and sheen to things.

Advance warning of the turn to Djuirite which the signs still call Mount Arapiles, gives me time to make the turn. The European name of the mountain was chosen by Major Sir Thomas Mitchell to commemorate the anniversary of a significant battle in the Napoleonic Wars. It remains a place of cultural significance for the Wotjobaluk people who are party to a number of parks in their traditional country.  It’s not far to drive to the lookout at the top of the mountain, a lot easier than climbing which is a traditional pastime here, extending back beyond Europeans to the traditional owners who exercised extraordinary climbing skills to access quarries where they sourced the silicified sandstone needed to make their stone tools.

Summit Lookout, Djuirite (Mount Arapiles)

The scenic impact of reaching the summit is somewhat compromised by the presence of communications towers, but it’s hard not to enjoy the full strength 4G mobile and data reception.

The track to the lookout platform is a rough set of rock steps which from which the path veers around to a northern facing suspended platform with views across to Mitre Rock and Mitre Lake.  I take my time, but even so, it’s not long before I’m driving back down the mountain and heading on my way...

Natimuk, mosaic sculptures

... to Natimuk where I am again delayed by some public art appreciation. This time it’s a collection of quirky figures with features and fashion defined by skilful mosaic work. Nearby is the eye catching sight of trees being hugged by colourful crocheted trunk stockings. I’ve noted in the village that there’s an interesting furniture store/manufacturer which research tells me makes reproduction period furniture of high quality. Having had a nice break, it’s back on the road.

The Wimmera Rivera

About another half hour finds me looking in wonder at the Wimmera River, somewhat aghast at my poor primary school education. Most of what I know of the geography of Australia was taught to me by my mother, who has always emphasised the superiority of the education she received in Queensland over that which was delivered in NSW. Well, to be fair, that wouldn’t be hard in the case of the public school I went to.  Somehow I always seemed to make it into the classes that were deemed not to need the constant attention of the teacher due to aptitude and ability, so one year with the choir master, the next with the band master and finally a term loosely supervised by the Principal.  Of course, Mum’s education focussed on Queensland geography, so she had great delight in having us recite the rivers of Queensland and describe where they ran… not that I remember all that now. But I had NO IDEA not the remotest inkling that there was such a thing as the Wimmera River. Or any river in the north west of Victoria for that matter. I had heard of the region known as the Wimmera but no clue that the district was named for a river. Quite a large river as it turns out.  Here on the edge of Horsham, they’ve made a lovely riverside precinct and there’s a riverside walk you can do if you have time. I don’t of course, so I drive on to get fuel and do a superficial reccie of the town.

My reccie proves fruitful as I find some high quality street art on the Centre for Participation, but I’ve still got quite a long way to go so it’s back to the driver’s seat.

Another hour and a half of lovely open road and I’m back in Murtoa. I passed this way on a quick road trip to Gariwerd (The Grampians) and the (original Yarriambiack Shire) Silo Art Trail which passes nearby. A little bit of exploring and I find a lead for my return with friends. This time I’m in luck and my arrival is at a time when the Stick Shed is open for visitors, do I leave it for the return or visit it now? Bird in the hand principle has me turning into the carpark. I better get a shuffle on because it’s already after midday and Mon-Saturday it closes at 12:30.

The Stick Shed, Murtoa - Cathedral of the Wimmera

A brief video in the entrance building tells the context, construction and vital statistics for the mass grain storage facility. It’s simply astonishingly large and the construction methodology precarious and improvised, real bush architecture. I ask from the staff whether there were any injuries or fatalities during the construction and without hesitation I’m told that in the entire time of construction and operation only two injuries were sustained, both crush injuries one to a hand and one to a foot. Amazing. Heading out to the shed itself, I find the frustration of trying, within the limits of the public access area, to get a photograph that does justice to the scale of the place. With time of the essence, I give it up and head inside.

I am presented with a complex webbing of bracing wires which form quite an aesthetically pleasing artistry. Looking down into the distance to the end of the shed, an art exhibition is displayed in cubicles defined by fine gauze curtains. The theme is Land is Family, images captured in normal working conditions on the farms, express the beauty of agriculture, a celebration of the beautiful nature of talented and resilient communities in country townships.  Photographic images are reproduced on an aluminium composite medium to complement this, the “cathedral of the Wimmera” and withstand the environmental elements within the shed.  I wander through this amazing structure, imagining performances which occur here from time to time, glad that the heritage value of this remote architectural gem has been recognised. As I scan down the lines of the visitor’s book, it’s clear I’m not alone in my feeling of wonder and gratitude to have the opportunity to see this remarkable monument to Australian rural ingenuity.

Rupanyup Living, Rupanyup

There’s more around Murtoa to be seen, but with limited time and a return trip with friends in the planning, it’s time to head on my way. My next stop is at Rupanyup Living where I need to pick up some of their delicious Gluten Free Brownie mix, a value-add enterprise using locally grown chickpea flour. The lovely little shop in the centre reserve of Rupanyup, is also a wonderful source of gifts. I bought up big when we were hear about a month or so ago.  

Rupanyup is of course a location for some impressive silo art, and at the silo location they have established a wall with useful tourism information and weather proof boxes for leaflets spruiking the charms of towns across Yarriambiack shire. I don’t repeat my visit to the silo today, nor the trail of chainsaw sculptures that is under development in the township. I am doing OK for time, but I’m aiming for Echuca so I still have a way to go yet.

Gold Prospector, Garry Perry, St Arnaud

On our February roadtrip, we skirted the township of St Arnaud and I was impressed by the beautiful old homes. I’m very pleased to have an opportunity for better look around, even though it could still only be described as a reccie. The main street is lined with vine draped awnings and young autumn trees and they’ve not neglected their street art credentials either with moody murals in black and white paying tribute to gold panners and Country Fire Authority heroes.

Tarnagulla, Victoria

My next temptation for out of car exploration comes with the tiny village of Tarnagulla, which seems almost a ghost town, but that is rich in gold fields history and community. The local free camp is well populated with vans, presumably occupied by grey nomads. In the township the information centre is closed, but their public artwork is openly available in the form of a Kangaroo Chair designed by local school children and dripping with symbolic references to local community.

A giant chess or checkerboard is surrounded by seating. Presumably pieces for a game may be available from the information centre when it’s open. It’s such a charming little place, I can’t resist a little wander and read about a series of local heritage loop walks and the history of the town in the gold rush era, the source of an astonishing wealth of finds. On a field that stretched 2 ½ miles along the main lead, some diggers were recovering as much as 86 lbs of gold in only a fortnight. It’s a hot day, the walks look enticing but are more than I have time or energy for in this heat. I turn my attention to an information board covering the floods of 2011, pleased to see that recent history is included in the story for visitors to consider. I settle for a short walk along Commercial Road, utterly charmed by Tarnagulla.  

Wesleyan Methodist Church, Tarnagulla

Back to the car, I take a turn up to the Poverty Mine project and memorial, named in remembrance of Poverty Bay in NZ rather than some symbolic reference to the range of trajectories that time on the goldfields represents. Nearby the burnt out shell of the Wesleyan Methodist Church, bright red brick of solid walls a surprising contrast to the roofless state. Even in its state of distress, it is a beautiful sight against the soft blue sky.

It’s nearly four o’clock but before I dedicate myself entirely to the journey across to Echuca, I seek out the water in Bridgewater. The oral history recorded on the sign about the flooding has made me curious and I’m learning to assume that any place where a township has sprung up must have water. Sometimes it’s a swimming pool or lake, or sometimes a river, but people gravitate to water and it’s a great place to start the exploration of any town or village. As I follow the modest street sign to the swimming place, I have no idea of the treasure I’m about to find.

The parking area is basic, but determined to photograph the water and perhaps the bridge I walk towards it. Swimming is in the pondage created by a weir and there’s a lovely picnic area with shade sails and electric barbeques, entry to the water facilitated by decking and ladders.  

Checking out the opportunities for photographs of the bridges, I find a most civilised fishing platform upstream, the meandering pathway leading me on with more rewarding scenes.  A huge flock of corellas is roosting in the trees along the river. The constant chatter among the birds adding another dimension to the riverside beauty spot.

Mural, Bridgewater, Victoria

Passing under the first of the bridges which seems like it might be an old railway bridge, I come upon a wonderful surprise in the form of an intricate and beautiful mosaic. Hundreds of hand made tiles in a myriad of shapes and forms have been brought together in representation of the town and it’s history. It is simply beautiful. So impressive.  

Corellas on the Loddon River at Bridgewater

Between the bridges cut out rust textured canopies stand like elevated lily pads above a picnic table. Suddenly in a chorus erupts as the flock of corellas takes flight. They settle and rise again in their hundreds over the water of the Loddon. I point and click hopeful of capturing the moment.

Crossing under the road bridge, the path, continues along the river where signage indicates that motorised water sports is popular, before terminating in an apparent dead end. I turn back and note with admiration the water station. And then the final cherry on top. A welcome to country in language and English translation from the Dja Dja Wurrung people noting that this has been a place of crossing for the traditional owners as well as those that have come after.

Bridgewater on Loddon

It’s time I got back on my way. A quick snap, has turned into half an hour and I could easily have stayed much longer. The township feels remote, but really it’s only half an hour north west of Bendigo, or a couple of hours to the heart of Melbourne. I love this about Victoria. So much diversity and interest within such a compact distance.

I’ve still got a way to go yet, so I head reluctantly back to the car and onto the first actual one lane roads I’ve come across in Australia. The road corridor is of ample width and visibility runs into the far distance but the sealed surface is much more restricted requiring vehicles to move half onto the dirt to accommodate oncoming traffic. The landscape is beautifully flat, the sky soft and grey in the late afternoon light.

Entering Echuca, my attention is drawn by what I now see as a blank canvas – Echuca Water Tower. Here my obsessive nature pays off.  I bit of digging around to spark my memory of where I took the photograph, I find that the Echuca Water Tower was designed by John Monash. Yes, THE John Monash who submitted the tender for the job in early 1914. Construction was finished after Monash had sailed for Egypt with the AIF.  It seems John Monash did a fine line in water towers having also designed water towers constructed around the same time period in Tongala, Rochester, Mildura and Tatura (home of the superb vanilla slice produced by Tatura Hot Bread).

Echuca Water Tower

It’s been a very full and enjoyable day, but by now I’m well and truly ready for settling in for the night. Eventually I go for something clean but basic with the priority on budget. I’m very happy with the choice of the Big River Motel which is worthy of the excellent online ratings.

Day 12 - Penola and Naracoorte Caves

Tuesday 17 March 2020

Well, after much deliberation, I’ve given myself a talking to and carried on at least as far as Naracoorte for a couple of nights. I’m really keen to take a look around Penola today but I can’t decide whether to spend the morning in Mount Gambier to check out the Riddoch Art Gallery. I start by doing a drive-by to see whether the Gardiner Fountain is switched on. It’s not, so probably the cave garden water isn't either. I’m still restless so I head along the route to Penola only to pull over with short notice when I find myself passing Vansittart Park and the Mount Gambier War Memorial, with ample parking right on the spot. The park is lush and green. 

Memorial Gates at Vansittart Park, Mount Gambier

The War Memorial is a credit to the community with a dignified central monument focussed on the world wars and Vietnam, avenue of plaques for subsequent conflicts leads from attractive memorial gates. I’m surprised to find another Lone Pine, descended from the one on Gallopoli, this one seems younger than the one in Warrnambool.

Innovative design on display in the toilet block in Vansittart Park

As with most parks of from the Victorian era, lovey bandstands complement the plantings. Then I have a great stroke of luck. Before I head out of town a stop at the toilets. These are quite remarkable. Under a canopy of fairly standard design is what looks like a facility inspired by a corrugated iron water tank. It’s circular with basins at the core and toilet stalls on the outside so each cubicle is wider at the back than at the front. It’s positively inspired because it provides ample room for the toilet itself and sanitary disposal unit without feeling cramped.

It’s well under an hour before I’m parking opposite the post office in Penola and admiring the beautiful heritage streetscape. I am keen to take a look at Petticoat Lane but first I take a walk down the street. The lolly shop has been highly recommended. I’m delighted by the information plaques on the statues of Alexander Cameron and best of all, a trio of bronze busts of poets with a connection to the area. I can’t say I’ve heard of any of them but this presentation of the poets has certainly sparked my interest.

I decide to turn and come down the other side of the road and make a stop at Toffee and Treats. There’s not many people about in Penola today and just one other customer in the lolly shop when I enter. Soon it’s just me and the store owner and we get settled in for a most enjoyable chat about some of the old school lollies in stock and some others that you can no longer get. We share some laughs about the way my daughter discovered that my husbands all time favourite sweet treat is back on the market. On a family break in December, stopped to pick up some things in the supermarket, my granddaughter was with her mother and amusing herself reading things in the aisle as her mother shopped. Distracted with other item my daughter hears “sc …scor..ched … pea…nut…bar…” to which of course her response was an immediate “Scorched Peanut Bar?! WHERE?????” True enough they’re back. A bit of research and a stop at the factory that’s making them and needless to say Hubby got a whole box of Scorched Peanut Bar for Christmas. 

Book Exchange, Penola

With my little bag of goodies stowed in my backpack, I say farewell and head down the street a bit further for a quick browse in a heavily stocked and eclectic gift shop. Nothing takes my fancy other than the bamboo chickens with spotty boots that are in the window but they’re very expensive so they can stay there looking cute.

Wilson's Cottage

I sample the Vanilla Slice from the Bakery and head along to Petticoat Lane. What a gem. Not all the properties are open today but there’s plenty to keep me amused. Old fashioned garments hanging from the washing line adds enormously to the ambience of the place.

Wilson cottage exemplifies the effort and reward for some in the gold rush era. William Wilson left his wife and family in Penola to push his barrow full of his belongings to Ballarat eventually returning with enough gold to buy the allotment where he built the house and a market garden, demonstrating the potential of the area for growing high quality produce. Wilson’s gold field experiences relate as a roller coaster of finds and betrayal and ultimate reward.

Sharam's Cottage, Petticoat Lane, Penola

A beautiful rose garden fills the allotment next to Sharam’s Cottage. At this time of global pandemic and increasing fears for people and their livelihoods, how refreshing it is to be here with an opportunity to consider the lives of people in times past. Simple, self-built houses simply decorated. A place to shelter, enjoy music and shared, often home-grown food. Shady trees for the hot weather, a warm and welcoming hearth for cold. It’s everyone’s self-sufficiency fantasy. Perhaps a pandemic is also a good time to consider the downside of life in times past when there were no vaccines or antibiotics. Where Granny Sharam’s success in raising all of her 15 children through infancy and all bar 4 of them to adulthood was proof of both great care and luck. And where the grief of losing four children to a combination of scarlet fever and tuberculosis was one of life’s anticipated trials, faith in God and the promise of reunion in the hereafter a dearly held consolation. Science a promise yet to be fulfilled.

Honesty Box Figs

The garden is tended by volunteers and produce is sold on an honesty system to help fund the preservation of these special places by the National Trust of South Australia.  Heading out I notice there’s actually a small parking area for cars for visitors just near Sharam Cottage and Davidson Cottage which can be rented as accommodation. There’s no need to park out the front of the historic cottages or ruin the heritage ambiance for other visitors!

The garden at Sharam's Cottage, Petticoat Lane, Penola

I’m quite amazed I did not realise what a special place Penola is. Why is it not nationally famous at least? Have I had my head under a rock? Of course I’ve heard of the Coonawarra wine district but that’s about all I’ve heard, the name. As I drive on to Naracoorte up the Riddoch Highway, it’s just a long, long sequence of cellar doors and fields full of carefully tended vines. This brings me virtually all the way to Naracoorte.

Earlier into Naracoorte than expected I head to Naracoorte Caves to see what I can knock over this afternoon. The guide at Tantanoola has highly recommended the Victoria Fossil Cave, but my main objective is the Bat Centre and Blanche Cave. The walk from the carpark to the Wonambi Visitor Centre is impressive. I don’t know how I’ve managed to miss it, but the fact that Naracoorte Caves is World Heritage Listed finally makes an impact. The presentation of the caves is very impressive, firstly with the life sized presence of a model of a Diprotodon optatum along the path, then the unavoidable presentations of giant marsupials, fleshed and furred as someone imagines they may have looked, adjacent to the ticket and information desk.

Diprotodon optatum

I’m in time for the 1pm tour of the Alexandra Cave but unfortunately it is sold out. I buy tickets to both of the other tours.  Then I have a little time to hang about have some fruit and a drink and drive across to the Victoria Fossil Cave for the tour there. The day is very warm so it’s a relief to be getting underground.

The Victoria Fossil Cave has some crystal, but after the spectacle of Tantanoola and Princess Margaret Rose Caves, I’m hard to please and am more entertained by watching the wonderment of others on the tour, who I can only conclude must not have had the chance to see those other caves yet. We get some information to set the context of the discovery of the caves and eventually arrive at the excavation site where chairs are set up along around a small man made amphitheatre and stone wall with the excavation site visible behind a closed area where our guide makes a detailed presentation using fossilised skeletons and bones. The global significance of Naracoorte comes from the fact that the fossil remains found in various sites go back up to 500,000 years through several ice ages. It’s truly extraordinary.
The climax of the presentation takes me rather by surprise and from an unexpected source. Our guide has been referencing the skeleton and explaining the conclusions that were drawn and revised as more parts of the animal were found across the country, finally clarified by a completely articulated example that turned up in the Nullabor. Look, here we have a jaw, the first of these was found in NSW and it was just the jaw. We know it’s from a marsupial because it has the marsupial plate there. We have no idea what that was for then or why marsupials still have it now. Then look here we found the top of the skull, these hollows are where the muscles attached, so the strength of the bite on this creature was enormous. Look, see how it doesn’t have teeth, just these scythe type of implement which were like a scissor effect. At first it was thought they must have been herbivores because modern carnivores all have incisors.  But look at this, can you see, this creature was found to have opposable thumbs, so that means it doesn’t need incisors. So now we believe it was a carnivore. The skeleton here in the shoulders show it could make an arm over arm movement, so this is a climbing animal.  It’s back legs are weak look here and when the fully articuted animal was found it had a tail almost identical to the kangaroo so it could stand upright like a kangaroo. But don’t be misled, this is not a hopping animal remember, it’s got weak legs. So what we have is a carnivorous, climbing, ambush predator – which makes it a….

Thylacoleo carnifex aka Marsupial Lion (near to camera)

…DROP BEAR!! Exclaims an excited and clearly highly intelligent and logical lady from Queensland. The group erupts with laughter. Our guide seems slightly exasperated. Remarks like mine of “It totally is a drop bear!” seem to dominate from the visitors. Is this the usual conclusion of Australian visitors? Our guide just shakes her drooped head. But man, this has totally made my year. A fossil drop bear. How freakin’ awesome is that! Our guide perseveres with the part of the presentation that discusses the common name being applied which is “marsupial lion” but don’t be misled, this is not a lion like modern lions at all, it’s quite different.  Of course, because it’s NOT a LION it’s a DROP BEAR! Only the most extreme and entrenched manifestation of cultural cringe would refuse to call it as such. 

Palorchestes azael a gian marsupial herbivore 

Exiting the cave we come along a short bush walk with information about additional fossil remains of giant extinct animals rather than back through the cave. As the group disperses, for me it’s back over to the Wonambi Visitor Centre where it is confirmed that I need to claim a refund. Travelling about on my own has been mostly OK but it means that because no one else has booked for the Blanche Cave and the information about the Bent Wing Bats, minimum numbers have not been reached. Visitor numbers are way down due to the fears of Covid-19 so the chances tomorrow don’t look great either. Clearly I need to return here for the full experience.

As compensation for my disappointment, I’m encouraged to take a look in the Fossil Centre. This is a recreation of what they think the environment might have been like when the megafauna roamed the area. Of course they cannot know the colours of the animals or whether they had fur or not, but they have taken inspiration from similar animals today and the overall interest created is quite extraordinary. It is hard to overstate the importance of this World Heritage Site.

Before heading for my accommodation, I head over to the self-guided Stick Tomato Cave, belatedly realising that the word is S. T. I. C. K.  I’d been reading it distractedly as Sick Tomato Cave and wondering how it got the name. Is it sickness country for Aboriginal people? Doh.  The mostly open caverns of the Stick Tomato Cave lend themselves to fun play for kids. There is also bite sized chunks of information about the geological history of the caves which are good for kids and that I find more digestible too.

The Swimming Lake, Naracoorte

I’ve got some time to kill now, the departure of the bats is quite late in the evening at this time of year, so I need to check into the motel and find something for dinner. But first, some exploring seems like the thing to do, so I head to the Naracoorte Swimming Lake. It’s been a hot day with maximum temperatures up around 36 Celsius. It’s about 5:30 pm so I suppose some people might be at home preparing dinner, but I would have expected a lot more people at the lake cooling off. There’s about 6 people and I can’t help wondering how much this is due to people beginning to shun these shared public spaces.  It’s a beautiful approach to a local man-made swimming place and very impressive in its execution. I’m delighted to find some fabulous mosaics on the nearby amenities blocks.

In the centre of Naracoorte, I’m struck by a beautiful piece of street art celebrating the endangered Red Tailed Black Cockatoos. More artwork and sculpture at the Naracoorte Regional Gallery and courthouse. Truly, artwork continues to proliferate in regional towns large and small and it makes such a fun way to explore, looking for treasures along with insights into the preoccupations of the local community.

Checked in to the Country Roads Motor Inn, chosen because I like to have the car nice and close to the door of my room, I decide a home delivered pizza is the way to go for dinner. I’m really starting to feel like I want to get home, though I have another night booked here.