Heading across the river I’m on the Long Paddock Touring
Route, so I make a point of stopping at the Long Paddock information bays to read
stories of the local area, tussles for control of key routes and squatter’s
runs, now long gone bush pubs and what is described as bribery but seems more
like extortion applied to drovers travelling through these frontier routes to
market.
Cod at Mathoura - species indeterminate based on the signs at Picnic Point! |
Canoe Tree, Gulpa Creek Drive |
Having admired the sculpture and the artwork on the sewer
pump station nearby, I decide to explore into the national park. An enticing dirt road temps a turn and I cruise
along Gulpa Creek to Gulpa Island. The forest is very dry and the scenery unchanging
and although the satnav suggests I can eventually reach my destination this
way, I turn back to the sealed road. The most interesting sight so far has been
the ancient canoe tree.
The boardwalk at Reed Beds Bird Hide |
Next stop is the Reed Beds Bird Hide. I pass by the electric bbqs and picnic tables
and head for the boardwalk out to the bird hide. Along the boardwalk information
stations have been installed that identify local birds and provide a recording
of their bird call, which is so handy for children or people who are not
experienced birdwatchers. In the forest cut out silhouettes of various birds
have been placed to pleasing effect.
Reed Beds Bird Hide, Murray Valley National Park |
The bird hide itself is impressive and has two levels. As I reach
a position where you look out over the wetland I gasp at the loveliness of the
scene and am transported in my mind back to Kakadu and the views over the
wetlands there. This is every bit as impressive. Perhaps this is to be expected
given that these wetlands are protected under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands
Treaty and other bilateral treaties with countries who share responsibility for
the migratory bird species tht rely on these breeding grounds. At the moment
the water is a long distance from the hide itself but when the plain floods and
triggers a breeding event, this place will come alive. Today there’s just a White
Bellied Sea Eagle hunting over the wetland.
Walking back along the boardwalk, honeyeaters are foraging
in the trees and fairy wrens are piping to each other in the undergrowth. This
is a beautiful place. I will definitely be watching for the next flood event to
come down here again.
Emus along Picnic Point Road |
Time is a ticking away, but I continue on to check out
Picnic Point and find myself at a Caravan Park and boat ramp with a nearby pub/venue
on the banks of the river near where the Kolety (Edward River) joins the Murray.
It’s a pretty peaceful spot. Looking from the sandy river beach across the
water to Victoria’s Barmah National Park, the Murry River itself is in NSW, Victorian jurisdiction starts from the southern bank of the river.
I wish I had a little kayak to paddle
away on one of the canoe trails in the national park. I’ve been enjoying my
time in Murray Valley NP very much but I’ve let the morning completely slip
away and I still have a long way to go.
Another Long Paddock site at the information centre in town, and more beautiful public art to admire. It's a shame it's so hot today. It doesn't encourage lingering outdoors.
The Murray River at Picnic Point, NSW. Barmah National Park, Victoria on the other side of the water |
Another Long Paddock site at the information centre in town, and more beautiful public art to admire. It's a shame it's so hot today. It doesn't encourage lingering outdoors.
Drover and Horse, by Cory Thomas. The style is inspired by the artwork of Russell Drysdale |
Next break from the car is taken at Deniliquin at the Long
Paddock site. We saw the Deni Water Tower Mural and admired the community
facilities, swimming centre, playground and parks in February so there’s no
need to explore those this time. The old
iconic Kingswood Ute mounted in tribute to the Deni Ute Muster seems dripping in
Pathos given the recent demise of car manufacturing and now even the Holden
brand in this country.
Deniliquin, Ute Capital of the World |
I’ve left the car running while I just take a couple of
quick photos. It’s a hot day so I don’t plan to be long, but I’m tempted to
explore a bit further, drawn towards the Kolety and the revegetation project
explained on the information panels. Once
again, I’m struck by the fact that in the last decade or so, while some in public
life indulge in racist dog whistling, communities around the country are
quietly getting on with reconciliation, sharing cultural knowledge, acknowledging
traditional owners and trying to improve the way the entire community cares for
country. There’s plenty more to see in Deni when next we pass this way.
Kolety (Edward River) at Deniliquin |
It’s still 3 ½ hours to Temora where I plan to stay tonight,
so the rest of the afternoon is spent enjoying the open road and checking into
my accommodation. Dinner is at the
highly recommended Shan’s at the bowling club. A chilled bottle of water
without having to ask for it is always a good sign. It’s a delicious meal, with
a pleasant ambience and uncrowded arrangement of tables. The food is high end
in style but with very large portions. The positive recommendations are
perfectly warranted. ThoughI think that this style of food is best in smaller portions leaving room for the whole three courses, but I guess sometimes it's necessasry to adapt to the expectations of the clientelle.
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