Day 4 - Historical County Meath Tour with My Ireland Family Heritage

Wednesday, 18 September 2019
We're up for another early start today, kicking off with some admiration of the sun rising over Trim Castle.

Ian is picking us up at 07:45 so we can get across to Bru na Boinne for the first tour of the day. Laughter and chat among the three of us on various subjects, including of course contextual information relating to the history of the area, sees the time pass in a jiffy but I have no clue of the direction we're heading or where we are at any given point. We note as we are passing through Navan that the building now occupied by the North Eastern Area Ambulance Service Headquarters used to be the local Workhouse and soon after we pull up for a quick photo from the car of the Donaghmore Round Tower.

Navan Workhouse, Co. Meath

Donaghmore Round Tower

Soon enough we pull into the car park at Bru na Boinne, there's plenty of spaces available just before 09:00 but it's filling quickly. The visitor centre is under renovation at the moment but meanwhile there's quite good portable facilities at the car park and a lady handing out bus boarding passes asking whether we want to go to Newgrange or both Newgrange and Knowth. Ian (our guide) has us organised and we're just visiting Newgrange. It's a walk down a beautiful shaded walkway to some stairs and the Visitor Centre which looks like work is nearing completion for an impressive grass roofed centre. We walk on across a bridge over the beautiful inky River Boyne and eventually come to where the buses are pulled up in a turning circle, a driver directing people to this bus or that.

 We've had tantalising glimpses of Newgrange as we've walked the path to the bus, but this does nothing to damp the excitement of seeing it sitting proudly at the top of the hill as we alight from the bus and walk up to the little hut and holding pen where we wait for our guided tour to start. As we wait I amuse myself by photographing some small birds who are sitting up in the top branches of a nearby tree, warming themselves in the morning sun. A young robin sits lower in the branches and sings for me, totally uninhibited by the long lens.

Newgrange

In due course our guide, joins us. He's an older man with a slight and rather classy eastern European accent. He is aided by a walking stick. Up close the monument is so beautifully finished, one of the questions that is often asked is when they added the quartz and stone finish to it. But no, this is original, over 5,000 years old. It looks like it was laid yesterday and it's a very stylish look.

It takes magnificent workmanship to last over 5,000 years!

We congregate out in front of the entrance for some initial warnings and information. No photos or videos inside, it's a confined space so if you're claustrophobic, consider if you want to continue. One lady immediately opts out, but our guide stops her - Before you decide not to go let me give you some more information" A detailed description of the space aspects of the experience given, she decides to give it a go, for which she is later very grateful. Probably the most emphasised point is that although lots of people have theories and have written books about their theories, NOONE knows what the purpose of this site actually was. Newgrange opens to the east, other nearby sites catch the western or other equinoxes. The technology between the light entrance and the people entrance is extraordinary.  Bags off our shoulders, backs or in any way around our body are removed and carrying them at knee height in front of us as instructed we head into the chamber. 

Entrance to Newgrange

The passage is narrow and a little convoluted as it leads us around a large boulder. Once in the central space which is tall and large enough for the 24 of us to be carefully positioned so each of us can see the light beam that will appear on the floor. There's three alcoves, it's believed these were put in place first and the monument built around them. The first to our immediate right contains a large stone that is slightly hollowed and holds another very large bowl shaped stone. The other two alcoves have stones on the floor but nothing larger. It's believed the ashes of the dead were placed in these alcoves.  Antique graffiti competes with the ancient decorative carvings in geometric patterns that the ancients applied. We are given ample warning before the lights are turned off, including advice about where to look if you are freaking out in the dark. After the light show it's time for questions and every question is answered comprehensively and with a tone of authority. This man is a superb guide. The technology of the construction is really impressive. They don't know how the huge perimeter boulders, which weigh between 1-10 tonnes were moved. the rocks that form the chamber are alternated large slabs over thinner slabs designed to fracture and ease the impact of the larger rocks being placed on top. The rocks slope to do as much as possible to waterproof the chamber. You don't get drips inside the chamber but you do get white calcification on the face of the rocks which is caused by slow water seepage over time.  It's a fascinating and awe inspiring place. Older than the pyramids in Egypt. A truly ancient place. 

Having emerged back into the light, we walk around the monument, which is decorated here and there by some pretty volunteer plants creeping delicately around the stones. Eventually, having loitered taking in the atmosphere, I hurry to catch up to the group so as not to delay, or indeed miss the bus back to base.  It's a shame to have to hurry from the bus up to meet Ian, the birds are singing in the trees along the path and if I had the day to our own devices, I'd be whipping out the binoculars and taking my time and doing the tour of Knowth as well. However, we do have a busy day planned so we walk purposefully on.
Our next stop is by the side of the road, where we pull up right next to a smallish dolmen, the precise location now escapes me but apparently these extraordinary arrangements of boulders are scattered around the landscape here and there, 190 in total around Ireland.  In this case, rather than being in a grassy paddock it's the centre piece of a pretty garden bed in a public park.
On we go and soon we're pulling into a pretty little lane and carpark with an adorable cottage beside a nicely kept graveyard. A nice man is resident in a little entrance gate hut and he greets us warmly before backing off when Ian come across from the car.

Muiredach's Cross at Monasterboice

This is Monasterboice. Ian takes us in and makes sure we notice the main claims to fame at this site - firstly let us examine this 5.5 metre high cross ornately carved with depictions of bible stories. The detail is somewhat blunted, but to be in even this condition after over 1000 years suggests that the original must have been truly superb. The round tower screams for attention and in due course we follow others who are climbing the stairs and having their photos taken. It's not really my scene to do such things but I climb up the stairs and smile for the camera when pressed. Another High Cross stands beside the tower in a challenging position for photography. What a shame the religious folk didn't consider this angle when putting the monument in position 😏.

With humans to give some scale - Monasterboice round tower and west cross

The most interesting thing for me with these towers was the clever construction methodology. They built them from the inside out, start with the base, construct a stair and internal structures and build the thick stone walls around it. It's beautiful craftsmanship. Doors are elevated in the side of the tower to make the tower less vulnerable to sappers. Small window ledges have formed a shelf for birds to build their nest.

What's this do you reckon?

In the ruins of a chapel, Ian points out an inconspicuous roundish rock with a bowl-like receptacle and some sharp straight parallel grooves across it. This doubled as sharpening stone for swords and a pestle for the religious to grind their herbs or grains. in the chinks between the rocks of the walls a pretty fern has latched on, eking a living from the moisture trapped in the crevices and nutrients it extracts from the soil trapped in pockets and even the rock itself.

Lastly we visit the sun dial, which has been modified to provide a core to hold the fracturing rock together and is protected behind a sturdy metal fence. Photos in the bag we head back to the car and one of the sites I have been really looking forward to.

Battle of the Boyne Visitor Centre

Battle of the Boyne Visitor Centre is schmick. It's on a grander scale than I was expecting. The car park is alongside some attractive stone buildings housing toilet facilities then we walk up a landscaped pathway to the open courtyard in front of in impressive heritage building that has been converted for the purpose. Old canons guard the entrance way. 

Inside, Ian explains the story to us, but really I'd rather be left in peace to read the panels. It's hard to think with someone chattering away. There are displays on the walls, some guns in display cases, mock ups of campaign tents with generously bewigged officers depicted consulting with one another about the battle. However far and away the best part of the displays was a 3D model of the landscape of the battle sight on which a light show explains the positioning of the troops on either side and the movements each formation made during the battle, it was simply brilliant and got across how the battle unfolded far more effectively than words or pictures alone could do.

We move out to the rear of the museum and find another large courtyard with a display of other canons and battle hardware. It's all beautifully presented and maintained. Our visit to the Battle of the Boyne has only taken us about 35-40 minutes. It may have taken me considerably longer had we been there on our own and more inclined to quietly contemplate and read the display boards more thoroughly or wander around on the battle field and defensive emplacements used for re-enactments, or indeed realise that there's a garden marked on the map - we missed that entirely. Oh dear.
Next we're off to Slane Abbey, which perhaps predictably, is positioned at the high point of another local hill.

We passed through the sheep gate and climb to the abbey ruins and prowl about for a while looking for photo opportunities as we hear of history dating as far back as St Patrick who lit a fire here. The buildings that are now ruins date from 1512. Hubby climbs the dark narrow tower on uneven stairs to an expansive view over the ruined Abbey and off into the distance.

View from the tower at Slane Abbey

Slane Abbey

Ian asks me to guess how they made the stone vaults.  I think about it and if built today I'd say they would have used a frame to hold the bricks in place until the lockstone is laid then remove it, but I'm puzzled by the timeframe. Given my hesitation in replying Ian goes on to the explanation. Like today they did indeed use formwork but they used woven hazel wands supported by posts. This was flexible and re-usable. It's marvellous what is done with coppiced hazel and willow. Puzzling why those skills seem to have been lost in the derivative culture in Australia. We should revive it. I'm really not into ruins but Ian's guiding has really enhanced our experience of Slane Abbey.

We stroll down the hill, heading in the direction of lunch via Slane Castle, an iconic outdoor rock concert venue. Apparently anyone who's anyone has played Slane Castle, crowds 80,000 strong arrayed around a natural amphitheatre. Expats have been known to come home especially to attend a gig there of a favourite band.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Before we reach Slane we again pass through Janeville and the Mural celebrating 100 years since the death of Francis Ledwidge in the third battle of Ypre in 1917. Time over I'd visit the museum about him. We are rather fond of visiting museums about local poets. Indeed, reviewing this entry at the end of our trip now we're home, not stopping at this museum is one of my biggest regrets for this trip. Looking at the museum website, Ledwidge's poem titled June seems a very fitting description of the weather over the last several days. Yes, I deeply regret not stopping in Janeville. I could blame letting someone else choose the itinerary but to be fair, I didn't have Ledwidge's museum on my own draft for the ancient east either. Silly.

June      

Broom out the floor now, lay the fender by,

And plant this bee-sucked bough of woodbine there,

And let the window down. The butterfly

Floats in opun the sunbeam, and the fair

Tanned face of June, the nomad gipsy, laughts

Above her widespread wares,the while she tells

The farmer's fortunes in the fields, and quaffs

The water from the spider-peopled wells.

The hedges are all drowned in green grass seas,

And bobbing poppies flare like Elmo's light

While siren-like the pollen-stained bees

Drone in the clover depths. And up the height

The cuckoo's voice is hoarse and broke with joy.

And on the lowland crops the crows make raid,

Nor fear the clappers of the farmer's boy,

Who sleeps, like drunken Noah, in the shade.

And loop this red rose in that hazel ring

That snares your little ear, for June is short 

And we must joy in it and dance and sing,

And from her bounty draw her rosy worth.

Ay! soon the swallows will be flying south,

The wind wheel north to gather in the snow

Even the roses spilt on youth's red mouth

Will soon blow down the road all roses go. 

I'm pretty happy with that given it was taken from the car in a hurry as we
were stopped by the roadworks and traffic

Our lunch venue is the Headfort Arms in Kells, this is another very atmospheric, upmarket venue where Ian knows the food is reliable. We are served by an older lady who will be heading down under to the Melbourne Cup, flying first class no less. That's definitely the way to do it. I decide to go for the brie and cherry tomato quiche while Hubby and Ian tuck into roast Turkey with baked vegetables. The food is nice and consumption slowed by chat.
Back in the sunlight, we're not done with Kells yet. We park in a street of quaint and well maintained cottages among which is another ancient building, this time a 10th century oratory that is in surprisingly good condition. To be honest I'm just as interested in the fruiting currant whose berries are shining like jewels int he sunlight above the fence

...and the Handball club across the road. You have handball clubs here? Yep, and a competitive competition league. What! If we have that in Australia I've not heard of it. A little googling and I find there is indeed competitive handball outside the schoolyard in Australia too. Who knew?
Not far away the Spire of Loyd and the adjacent famine pauper's graveyard is our next stop. The destitute would head to the workhouse if for no other reason that their expectation of being buried in a coffin. The coffin was just a loan to transport the body to the burial ground then the corpse was tipped into the grave, quicklime sprinkled over and the coffin returned for the next poor soul. The destitution of the poor contrasts with the extravagance of the lighthouse folly. But we need to make tracks. We're aiming to be back at Trim for the last tour of the day there.

Looking down on one of the models of Trim Castle

We jump out of the car at the entrance to the Castle while Ian finds a parking spot. We wander about briefly among a group of noisy schoolkids and wait for the tour to start. Trim Castle is largely ruined, but there's enough left to support some modern walkways at various levels to bring you to the top of the castle and resulting views.  I've toured a few castles now but I still learned some things at Trim, particularly as our guide, Gerry, takes us through the three models of the castle at various points in history. Apparently they had wooden structures cantilevered on the exterior sides of the castle which if under attack and they caught fire, could simply be dropped onto the assailants below as a flaming barrier.  Ingenious. Gerry starts off fairly restrained but as he gets into it, he is very engaging and entertaining. Amazingly the castle was covered in Ivy and weeds for hundreds of years, a veritable sleeping beauty's hideaway, until the owner allowed it to be cleaned up and opened to visitors in the 1960s.

A handy breeze sprang up to lift the flag at just the right moment

...there's a new job we learned about too, apparently in order to make the garderobes work properly some poor creature had to jump down into the cesspit and stir the human waste and filth to make the fumes rise to fumigate the clothes hanging above. There's no commentary about the likely lifespan of these poor sods, it can't have been long, surely. I wonder how they prevented cholera if people were wading about in shit on a regular basis. Perhaps cholera wasn't in these parts in those days. A brief check of the History of Cholera and I find that no, it wasn't. The first major outbreaks of Cholera were in India hundreds of years later.  

It's getting on now but we've still one more stop to go before we head back to Dublin. I've been very much looking forward to this one too. Tara. It seems rather fitting that some alternative lifestylers seem to have set themselves up for a comfortable stop in the car park. We have a quick look at the information boards near the entrance path, before we walk up into the sun, lowering now as it heads for the horizon. We look at the formation known as the Banquet Hall but thought more likely an ancient road or pathway,  Ian talks to us about the site as we walk. It's not until we are standing in the highest mounds surrounded by the earthworks that the site can be fully appreciated. It is here that I am most affected by the ancient and perhaps mystic significance of this place. We head across for a photo opportunity at the Mound of Hostages then start heading back to the car through the dim shaded grounds of an old church. I linger behind as we emerge out into the sun. Some quiet time here in the golden light of the dying day is called for. You can't hear any place speak to you if you're not quiet and listening. A piper is now standing on a high section of ground playing The Dark Island. She's a silhouette in the golden sunset, her haunting music making an emotional connection to this moment in this place. I am grateful. The Hill of Tara is not so much a sight as an experience. I walk towards her, keen to capture the moment and immerse myself in the music. 

Piper on the Hill of Tara

It feels like a pretty quick dash back to Premier Inn at Dublin Airport where we are having a quiet night. Just as well. We are shattered. I'm literally falling asleep waiting for our meals. We've covered a lot of ground but it's been a long and exhausting day.