Day 2 - Bendigo

Speaking to my Aunties on the phone last night, I came to a decision to face the potentially Covid19 laced crowds at the Lost Trades Fair.  My original plan was to finally visit Central Deborah Gold Mine and the many other permanent places of interest in Bendigo, but what the heck, I may as well sus out the fair and then see how I go.
Heading out to the racecourse a good 20 minutes before the fair is due to open, I join a long line of traffic which is at a virtual standstill. I creep along in the queue slowly for a while before deciding, blow that, I’ll just do the normal tourist things and avoid the crowds.  Driving up past the turn off I see that there’s an even longer queue of traffic coming in from the other direction to turn left. Driving back to towards the Tram depot I see the queue is even longer now. My suggestion if you want to come to the fair or other events at the raceground in future – book early – try for accommodation at the Big4 and walk, or use whatever public transport may be available!

I’ve decided to approach my day by parking at the Tram Depot and using the Bendigo Talking Tram to get about. My early start has put me there in time to take a super quick look at Bendigo Woollen Mills before I need to board the first tram of the day. Parking in the front of the Tram Depot is limited but you can also park in the bigger area at the Woollen Mills and just walk through to get the tram.

Bendigo Tram Depot. I didn't have time to do the self guided tour here.

The lady on the desk at the depot is nice and friendly and she supports my stated intention of just riding the circuit and then deciding what to get off to do. A handy map of the tram route and tourist sites is provided. The depot is very cute and retro but there are plans posted on the gate for a renewal project that looks impressive and for which the sign says more information is available on the website. The Bendigo Tramway is unique in that they never sold off their rolling stock, just converted it to tourism when it closed as a public transport provider.

This first service is to be on the Dja Dja Warrung tram which is decorated with Aboriginal art and the interior contains information about the native language names of various indigenous animals and the aspirations of the Dja Dja Warrung people. The tram is pretty noisy. It clatters along in a most charming way. At least half the rolling stock are coming up for 100 years old. Firstly we head up past Saturday cricket on a local field to the Joss House. I’m tempted to just get off at the Joss House and tick it off the list, half an hour to the next service seems about right, but it doesn’t open until 11 so I stay put on the train for the southward trip.  It’s fascinating to hear about the market gardens and millionaire meat sellers as we clatter back on the Southward journey. As much as anything I’m interested to hear the correct pronunciation of Lake Weeroona which sounds like WAHrunna. It means “pleasant waters” in the local language. It does look very pleasant and has lanes for rowing activities.  On the opposite side of the road is a tennis centre.

We reach our terminus at Central Deborah Gold Mine. I had thought of this as the main thing to do, but given it chews up so much time I figure I’d like more of a look around Bendigo first, so I stay put and we rattle up past Sacred Heart Cathedral to my chosen alighting point. Charing Cross and the Alexandra Fountain. 

It's glorious weather, cool and clear and perfect for sigh seeing. Rosalind gardens is beautiful with mature trees, lush grass and pretty flower beds. I walk up past the Soldiers Memorial Institute and Museum to the Magistrate’s court.

I’ve already seen enough of Bendigo to be thinking that the quality of life must be very good here. This is the Goldilocks city. Not to little, not to big, it’s just right. It has all the big city gravitas with the gold rush era stone buildings and ornate street furniture. Victorian era gardens with mature trees and shady avenues and small conservatory.  

Most things are within 6-9 minutes walk of the information centre

The screeching of bats draws my attention and I am lured by sound and smell into the fernery for a look. Curling pathways provide outdoor activity without sun exposure. So far I can’t see that much damage to the trees from the bats, but it’s inevitable and I’m sure they’ll find they need to move them on at some point to protect the historic plantings.  I trace the paths back around to an entrance and continue on my way to the Golden Dragon Museum, exploring through the Chinese gardens to the Guan Yin Miao (Temple of the goddess of mercy).  A mural project has been decorating the walls of the temple enclosure with Chinese style artwork. Yellow roses are planted, which seems appropriate given their eastern origins. It’s peaceful in the temple with not many people in the area. Those few that are seem to be families with kids who want to play on the lotus flower, sliding down the petals. It's not hard to keep my distance. 

Finished with the gardens, I head over to the museum and pay my entry fee. As is usual for tourist sites they ask me where I’m from. “Sydney” I cheerfully say then pause adding “not the part of Sydney where the virus is”.  Three of us erupt in nervous laughter.  I head in through heavy doors to the soft lighting of the museum space. This is circular and has little alcoves with displays about various Chinese family groups from the gold rush era and the history of the Chinese community of Bendigo. The most arresting feature of this museum though is that it is the sleeping place of the dragons. Loong, is the oldest intact processional dragon in the world, having made his first processional appearance in 1901. Loong retired in time for Sun Loong (new dragon) to take his place in 1970. Sun Loong, is over 100 metres long and his stylistic parentage as the descendant of Loong is seen in his mirrored scales and long body skirts. But even Sun Loong retired in 2019.  Dai Gum Loong (The great golden dragon) has arrived and will pick up the duties of main processional dragon in the Bendigo Easter parade from 2020. Dai Gum Loong is the first major parade dragon in Bendigo to be carried by both men and women, he has retained stylistic features of his predecessors but also is a modern dragon with his own distinctive style, and he’s bigger still at over 125 metres in length. The body of the sleeping dragon winds its way up around the galleries above. The beauty and workmanship is amazing.  The main parade dragons are in good company in the museum with night dragons and other smaller dragons also sharing the chamber.  

Dai Gum Loong sleeping in lowlight

As I move across into the next gallery, I pause at an animated display which tells the story of the festivities the week before Easter for the waking of the dragon. This is a uniquely Bendigo tradition which includes a lot of noise among which is the local Pipe Band which I think is nicely inclusive. The event raises money for charity and it sounds like Bendigo is a great place to be for the run up to Easter and the Easter weekend!

Into the next room and I find a collection of remarkable items, from the carved jade Dragon Chariot of a Thousand Sages, a Qing Dynasty carriage that had been housed on a property at Lismore, NSW where Chinese market gardeners had worked in the 19^th Century, to the Hokio Unicorn (Seui Leun) or quilin. The qilin is similar to the dragon but with a single horn like protuberance on its head. The quilin is considered the third most powerful being after the dragon and the phoenix.  

Hokio Unicorn (Sui Leun)

Moving around the corner in dim light, Loong himself is sleeping with his head looking towards a chair whose back includes the traditional swastika design that was appropriated by the Nazis.  But it is now time I went on my way.  Heading back through the round gallery I wander into a room filled with information about people of importance to the local Chinese community. The one that really grabs my attention is Alec Chew MBE. During World War II, Alec was a prisoner of War in Ambon. He escaped with seven others and tramped across the island with help from islanders and Dutch authorities using a variety of canoes, prau and boats to island hop their way to Darwin. Shortly afterwards, Alec returned to the islands hoping to rescue other stranded soldiers. He later joined Z special commandos, (a forerunner of the SAS) who remained behind enemy lines to cause disruption to the enemy and gain as much useful information as possible for the allied armies. Alec died in 1988 and is buried in Bendigo Cemetery. Clearly a very very brave man. A hero. What a privilege to hear his story and see him in as a young man in uniform and in his older years holding his medals.

Out into the sunshine I sit on a bridge ledge and contemplate my next move. The Golden Dragon Museum (well named) has taken me about an hour. 

I’m getting pretty hungry so I decide that I’ll head back through the gardens to the Bendigo Art Gallery. Art Galleries usually have excellent cafes. As I walk the birds are calling. A Pee Wee is excited about something, Currawong replies, lots of Ravens too. Then the clock chimes the hour ringing out across the city. A father and his son and daughter are kicking a footy on the grass, Dad giving the boy tips on technique.  I contemplate whether to climb the Poppet Head Lookout. No good making decisions when you’re tired and hungry. I wander in and am seated at a small table by the window. Perusing the menu, I am tempted by today’s special of Roast Duck salad with fennel, orange and hazelnut, but in the end I go for the prawn bun, which involves prawns marinated in paprika on a brioche bun.  Prawn bun is different, OK. Prawn bun it is.

yep, it was delicious

Lunch over and fortified for the exertion I climb the hill and the Poppet Head. I can see the entirety of the Queen Elizabeth Oval with its heritage grandstand. Over to the north is a swimming pool complex with slides, to the south is the Sacred Heart Cathedral. My aunties recommended that for its stained glass, perhaps that should be my next stop. I admire the heritage mosaic that has been installed around the Poppet Head and start to make my way back down the various levels of the lookout.  

Looking through the framework of the Poppet Head Lookout towards Bendigo Art Gallery

Time now for Bendigo Art Gallery. I walk out through the car park onto View St and am captivated by the lovely pub on the corner and the glorious avenue of trees lining the sides and centre of the road. 

Bendigo Art Gallery

A couple is on the steps of the Gallery having wedding photos taken.  I head in and there’s no paid exhibitions, so I am free to just wander and make a donation if a choose to. This is another Goldilocks experience, it’s big enough to have some paintings representing significant developments in art history but not too big to be able to explore without feeling overwhelmed. Among the mix is a couple of exhibitions thoughtfully presented. One is on childhood and the passage to adulthood and the another is by contemporary Aboriginal Artist Josh Muir called What's On Your Mind. The art gallery has taken me half an hour and I didn’t feel rushed but on the other hand I didn't really linger. 

A couple photograph a scale model of a VW Kombi in front of the artwork

I check the time. Just before two thirty.  Oh dear, the Joss House closes at three, can I make it there in time? When is the next tram?  I walk down the hill, taking my time. I can always walk down to the cathedral if the Joss House is not possible. As I’m waiting at the lights checking my map and timetable I see the tram is due at 2:37. It’s 2:35. I look up and see the tram approaching, scoot across quickly to the stop, perfectly timed for the tram to glide up and open its doors for me to board. 

Perfect.  Clattering up past the Conservatory Gardens we learn that Bendigo is still one of the world’s richest gold fields and as passengers are given some impressive stats showing the level of productivity. We arrive at the Tram Depot in time for me to quickly alight, make the short walk to my car and program the satnav for the Joss House. I might just make it. 

The Joss House

Pulling up in the parking immediately in front of the Joss House a staffer comes towards the gates. I hope he’s not locking up yet. “Am I in time for at least a quick look?” I ask. Plenty of time, they’re staying open until 4 pm today due to the Labour Day weekend. Plenty of time. He’s a friendly chap. I take my time and take some photos before wandering in. Money paid, hands shaken, I suggest we should probably be tapping feet these days. We will have to practice won’t we. A quick run down on the spaces shown on the guide and map then I spend time reading every word of some interesting information boards here in the reception area. The Joss House is the oldest Chinese place of worship in Australia and next year big celebrations are planned for its 150^th anniversary. The various chambers serve Buddhism, Taoism and Confuscianism. This is a very small complex so it doesn’t take a long time to look about. All up I’ve spent 20 minutes here without rushing but no lengthy contemplation in the various rooms.

Looking at the brochure for the Central Deborah in the reception area of the Joss House, Jason enquires if I’m looking for things to do and suggests I run out to the Great Stupa, it’s only 15 minutes away.  It’s a deal. Great Stupa it is.  The route takes me through Eaglehawke which is yet another beautifully atmospheric Victorian township with a lovely heritage feel to the streetscape. The turn to the Great Stupa takes me through some scrubby bush and then up past striped flags fluttering amongst the trees lining the long, unsealed driveway. I’ve been passed on the way in by a stream of cars leaving. There’s lots more in the parking area. This place is certainly popular. The Stupa View Cafe and gift shop building is neat but not flashy.
In the reception building, I'm encouraged to view in introductory video that explains the project, the donation of the land and the discovery and acquisition of the jade boulder, named Polar Pride from which the jade buddhas have been carved. The project to build the Great Stupa will take decades and many millions of dollars to fully complete. They are still working on the construction of the building itself, a massive undertaking given the structure is 50 metres square and 50 metres tall. Then there’s interior and exterior decoration to be undertaken. It is intended as a peace park and place where all spiritual belief systems are welcomed and represented.  Video completed I walk across to touch the jade halo of the buddha. It’s unbelievably smooth and glossy. It seems strange to say that it feels "true" and brings to mind the Maori tradition that greenstone carries spirit. 

I step out into the bright afternoon and start to make my way to the Stupa itself.  It’s already a very impressive structure. It seems a long way away, but somehow my steps are light and I find the walk up through the Peace Park very easy. Beautiful gardens, including a Bodhi tree forest, have been established. A family is walking along the prayer wheels attached around the base of the Stupa, spinning them as the yellow fringe above flutters in the breeze. It’s a very peaceful ambience. No obvious entry, I follow others and a man holds a door open for me to enter. I slip off my shoes and looking around,  join the group that is with a monk who is explaining a large recently delivered Buddha. We progress around the Chamber, which will eventually have nine alcoves and 9 Buddhas all highly decorated. Our guide tells us the sweet spot for photos of the largest jade Buddha and we also meet a smaller, but still large and impressive, female aspect of the Buddha also carved from Polar Pride. Our interior tour completed, I make my way across to contemplate the Jade Buddha and get that money shot in the sweet spot. 

I prefer this angle. Jade Buddha in the Great Stupa of Universal Compassion

Slowly making my way out, I stop and make a donation and collect a laminated sheet on the fourteen teachings of the Buddha. I start to slip on my sandals and find I really don’t want to go. There’s something about that huge jade Buddha, and this place. This is a healing place for the contemplation of spiritual truths and the practice of compassion and service to all beings. What a wonderful, visionary project.

A devotee works  on what will be decades of work decorating the Stupa

I browse the gift shop but decide I can’t really afford what I would like to buy. Drive away. Get down past Eaglehawke and decide I was stupid. It’s only the equivalent of one night’s accommodation. I turn back but remember the sign that says they lock the gates at 5 pm. I won’t make it. I turn back for home. Tired and stiff from all the walking, I fill up the car and make another stop at Coles for some essentials. It’s great to relax. It’s been such a brilliant day.  

St Francis of Assisi

On my own and tired I decide I’ll just pop down the road for takeaway Chinese, which turns out to be average but it does the job.  I’ve loved my day in Bendigo. There’s still plenty more I didn’t do. Hopefully it won’t be too long before I can return.