My negligence is brought to my attention this morning as I set
the satnav to take me to Portland and get on my way, pure luck takes me past
the Warrnambool Water Tower that features the Our Story Mural profiling the
journey of three local migrants and former refugees, and celebrating the rich
and diverse social tapestry of the Great South Coast. I really should have been
checking the Silo Art interactive map online.
The objective today is to reach Mt Gambier via Portland.
That will only take about 2 ½ hours driving so I have some time to spend on
things that take my fancy. I’ve got my eye on the heritage tram in Portland and
a few tourist sites around there. This idea is pushed back as a brown sign
points me towards the coast at The Crags, promising me a war memorial 3 kms
beyond the flat grazing land bordering the highway.
At the end of the road there’s a small parking area with a
sign explaining about the Crags as Aboriginal Homelands of the Peek whurrung people
whose population was around 8,000 before Europeans arrived (and brought smallpox
epidemic to which Aboriginal people had no resistance). The island off the
coast is Deen Maa. It and the Crags are special spiritual places connected to
Dreamtime and the creation of humans, the land and sea and all creatures and
plants. Information about the local middens and what they tell us about Aboriginal
life and occupation fills the rest of the board.
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| The Crags with Deen Maa island in the distance |
A walk of a further 100 metres brings me to the memorial
site. There’s no access to the coast itself, but in compensation there is, I
think, probably the best rehabilitation zone signage I’ve ever seen. I was impressed
by the Keep Out Rehabilitation Area signage we saw in Scotland but this goes
further. It explains enough about the processes of erosion, the work that has
been done to stabilise the area and slow the erosion and preserve Aboriginal middens.
Aboriginal uses for local plant species round out some further detail. It’s a
very persuasive sign.
I turn my attention to the memorial sculpture and the
information about its placement here in such an isolated spot. The crew of four
were lost when they attempted to land their Avro Anson on Deen Maa during what
is thought to have been a submarine patrol in 1944.
Another sign tells of the geology and the changes to
coastline and climate over the millennia. Local birdlife is discussed with
emphasis again for the Hooded Plover and Pied Oystercatcher. An offshore stack
houses a colony of Silver Gulls. You need to look closely at the dull brown
photograph on the bottom of the sign. Apparently this is one of the best places
in Australia to see a rock formation called a rhizomorphs. A rhizomorph is pretty
much as the name suggests. Roots through the earth rot away and leave tubes
which form funnels for rainwater enriched with calcium carbonate. In a process
similar to the formation of stalactites, casts of the roots are created which
are harder than the softer limestone rock called calcarenite which surrounds
them. Over time the calcarenite erodes leaving these ghosts of the ancient
vegetation.
Yet another sign tells further details on Deen Maa, which is
home not only to the spirits of dead Aboriginal people, who have travelled to
the island with their firestick after their burial, but to the world’s largest fur
seal colony. The sign reckons there’s about 30,000 fur seals there but other
sources say it’s less than half that number. Either way it’s tiny compared to
the estimated 200,000 fur seals resident prior to predation by European
sealers.
Another brown sign prompts a turn towards the Bay of Whales
Gallery along an initially sealed road that turns to gravel as you enter the
long drive up to the gallery itself perched on a rise with views down to the coast.
A pair of handsome and friendly border collies comes over to welcome me, one of
them is carrying a small yellow ball in its mouth, but doesn’t seem willing to
surrender it for a came of fetch.
Entering the gallery itself, there’s a small kitchen servery
by the door and the artist himself (Brett Jarratt) at work. The room is one large
space with some tables where you can sit and have a coffee and cake, admire the
art and from some tables, also the view. The art is exceptional. Much of Brett’s
work is for the purpose of illustration in factual texts and guide books. What
a privilege to see the originals. I’ve got time and the treats look nice so I
decide to sit for a while by the window and indulge in a lemon meringue tart. The
lemon curd filling was nice but unfortunately the meringue was very grainy,
which is surprising because it’s not like making meringue is difficult. I can’t
afford an original artwork at the moment so I am satisfied by a copy of Australia’s
Amazing Whales and Dolphins published by Australian Geographic.
Next stop Portland. I see no sign of the Tram running and to
be honest, it’s not such a nice place that I’m tempted to do more than stop for
a few photos and take a look at the historic Rock Shed, taking care to keep my
distance from others doing the same before me.
By now I’ve set my sights on touring the Princess Margaret
Rose Cave so I get on my way, travelling through extensive pine plantations
including a section that burned bringing to mind the concern expressed at the
time of the fires as to the potential losses if the fires were not prevented
from moving through the plantations.
I arrive into the caves reserve within Lower Glenelg
National Park at probably the perfect time for the next cave tour at 1:30 pm. There’s
a few people here for the tour and we keep our distance from one another as we
loiter and wait for the tour to start. I make doubly sure I’m minimising my
time in the room by heading back to the car to adjust what I’m carrying. Several
times. More luck than good management.
I am surprised at how easily accessible the cave is. Only 68
steps. The easier caves at Jenolan have more like 300 or so. It’s also convenient
that the crystal drapes primarily down one side of the cave so it’s easy for
everyone to line up against the opposite wall to take their photographs as we
move along. The extent of the decoration is impressive. There’s also a very
impressive array of formations that I’ve not seen before despite having visited
quite a lot of caves. Blanket shawls, saw edged shawls and beyond the crystal
there’s fossilised and living roots from trees in the reserve. I am so very
glad I made this tour a priority. Time well spent
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| Princess Margaret Rose Cave |
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| Saw edged Shawl |
Back above ground, others clear out. I spend some time
watching the birds around the birdbath behind the visitor centre with pleasing
results: A beautiful male Golden Whistler, Yellow Faced Honeyeater, Crescent
Honeyeater and a Sitella. Curiosity and a desire for some exercise takes me
down the path to Bocara (Glenelg River) now in its final approach from Gariwerd,
400 km away in Victoria to the Koonang (sea). This area marks a cross over
point, the most western range for some vegetation types from the east of the
continent while also within range for western Australian flora. The shrubs
along the path are flowering beautifully and it’s peaceful having the place to
myself. The Black Duck under the pier doesn’t seem to agree as it flaps madly
moving away from my unwelcome intrusion on the jetty.
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| Bocara (Glenelg River) |
I’ve tended to stay on the move a lot during this walkabout and
it’s beautifully green and cool in the park so I decide to take my time and
unpack a picnic lunch in the shade. A parent Magpie and it’s youngster hang
about hoping for some scraps. Other birds fly over, too far away for identification.
Eventually, my cheese, crackers and fruit tucked away bellyside, once again it’s
time to hit the road.
The route into Mount Gambier takes me along an avenue of
European trees with some autumn colour beginning. It’s an irresistible stop
when I get to the signs pointing out Umpherston Sinkhole. The park around the sinkhole
is green and shady with sculpture and electric barbeques. One very prominent sculpture is representative
of the creation process for cenotes and is explained in detail on interpretive
signage.
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| Cenotes and Other Encounters by Ivo Tadic |
The sinkhole itself provides a beautiful canvas for floral
artistry. With drought and climate the water table has reduced since the garden’s
creation in the 19th Century so there is no longer a small lake. The
garden is green but I’m a bit disappointed by the horticultural selections. The
ivy is obviously thriving and hydrangeas in rows down on the floor of the
sinkhole are hanging in there. It’s not meticulously maintained but it’s tidy. It’s
a bit “meh” to be honest. A sign promotes a visit at night when possums come
out to play and the Lady Nelson ship at the information centre is illuminated.
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| Umpherston Sinkhole |
Next stop, is to take a look at the Blue Lake while it’s
still sunny. At this time of year the colour is not such a “crazy blue” but it’s
still an intensely blue experience. The water level rises and falls in the crater
of an extinct volcano, fed by flows from the limestone aquifer which is in turn
replenished from infiltration of local rainfall.
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| The Blue Lake |
Time now to check in to my accommodation and get some
dinner. Having enjoyed my stay at the
Olde Maritime in Warrnambool I’ve gone for Best Western again this time at
Southgate. The guy on the desk makes some stupid joke about how he’s been happy
his wife has been away. I’m tired, but I’m not sure that really makes any real
difference to my attitude to his banter. “She’s probably had a good time too.”
I say with lots of meaning in the tone and delivery. Is this why he allocates
me to a noisy room with a door to the room next door? A complaint soon has me
allocated to a better room. The rooms have been refurbished recently and I’m comfortable
inside, but the property as a whole feels a bit like an institution. I guess
they haven’t the water to waste washing the grimy windows. The pool area looks
like what you might find in the internal courtyard of a poorly maintained block
of units. Very basic.
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| A Mount Gambier local innovation. Delicious. |
Dinner is takeaway burger and Mozzarella Sticks from Born to
Grill. Very nice but probably would have been even better with a little less of
the house sauce.
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| The Birdhouse Burger from Natural Born Grillers, Mt Gambier |
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