Day 14 - Mathoura, Murray Valley National Park, Deniliquin, Shan's Diner's Choice Restaurant Temora

Thursday 19 March 2020

I’m slow to get away thismorning, gradually getting myself organised and trying to decide what direction to head from here. Chatting with the old guy with a bandaged leg that sits at a little table just near my car. I’ve been to Echuca several times, so although I love Echuca and the Historic Port area, not to mention the Read Heeler bookstore, keen to get home and to be seeing new things on the way, I decide to head on my way across the Murray River into New South Wales.

Heading across the river I’m on the Long Paddock Touring Route, so I make a point of stopping at the Long Paddock information bays to read stories of the local area, tussles for control of key routes and squatter’s runs, now long gone bush pubs and what is described as bribery but seems more like extortion applied to drovers travelling through these frontier routes to market.

Cod at Mathoura  - species indeterminate based on the signs at Picnic Point!

 The Murray wriggles it’s way north for a while in this area towards the town of Mathoura. Like a fish in a race, I’m caught at the point of a sculpture of a giant fish strategically located on the Cobb Highway at the turn down into Murray Valley National Park.

Canoe Tree, Gulpa Creek Drive

Having admired the sculpture and the artwork on the sewer pump station nearby, I decide to explore into the national park.  An enticing dirt road temps a turn and I cruise along Gulpa Creek to Gulpa Island. The forest is very dry and the scenery unchanging and although the satnav suggests I can eventually reach my destination this way, I turn back to the sealed road. The most interesting sight so far has been the ancient canoe tree.

The boardwalk at Reed Beds Bird Hide

Next stop is the Reed Beds Bird Hide.  I pass by the electric bbqs and picnic tables and head for the boardwalk out to the bird hide. Along the boardwalk information stations have been installed that identify local birds and provide a recording of their bird call, which is so handy for children or people who are not experienced birdwatchers. In the forest cut out silhouettes of various birds have been placed to pleasing effect.

Reed Beds Bird Hide, Murray Valley National Park

The bird hide itself is impressive and has two levels. As I reach a position where you look out over the wetland I gasp at the loveliness of the scene and am transported in my mind back to Kakadu and the views over the wetlands there. This is every bit as impressive. Perhaps this is to be expected given that these wetlands are protected under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands Treaty and other bilateral treaties with countries who share responsibility for the migratory bird species tht rely on these breeding grounds. At the moment the water is a long distance from the hide itself but when the plain floods and triggers a breeding event, this place will come alive. Today there’s just a White Bellied Sea Eagle hunting over the wetland.

Walking back along the boardwalk, honeyeaters are foraging in the trees and fairy wrens are piping to each other in the undergrowth. This is a beautiful place. I will definitely be watching for the next flood event to come down here again.

Emus along Picnic Point Road

Time is a ticking away, but I continue on to check out Picnic Point and find myself at a Caravan Park and boat ramp with a nearby pub/venue on the banks of the river near where the Kolety (Edward River) joins the Murray. It’s a pretty peaceful spot. Looking from the sandy river beach across the water to Victoria’s Barmah National Park, the Murry River itself is in NSW, Victorian jurisdiction starts from the southern bank of the river.

The Murray River at Picnic Point, NSW. Barmah National Park, Victoria on the other side of the water

I wish I had a little kayak to paddle away on one of the canoe trails in the national park. I’ve been enjoying my time in Murray Valley NP very much but I’ve let the morning completely slip away and I still have a long way to go.
Another Long Paddock site at the information centre in town, and more beautiful public art to admire. It's a shame it's so hot today. It doesn't encourage lingering outdoors.

Drover and Horse, by Cory Thomas. The style is inspired by the artwork of Russell Drysdale

Next break from the car is taken at Deniliquin at the Long Paddock site. We saw the Deni Water Tower Mural and admired the community facilities, swimming centre, playground and parks in February so there’s no need to explore those this time.  The old iconic Kingswood Ute mounted in tribute to the Deni Ute Muster seems dripping in Pathos given the recent demise of car manufacturing and now even the Holden brand in this country.

Deniliquin, Ute Capital of the World

I’ve left the car running while I just take a couple of quick photos. It’s a hot day so I don’t plan to be long, but I’m tempted to explore a bit further, drawn towards the Kolety and the revegetation project explained on the information panels.  Once again, I’m struck by the fact that in the last decade or so, while some in public life indulge in racist dog whistling, communities around the country are quietly getting on with reconciliation, sharing cultural knowledge, acknowledging traditional owners and trying to improve the way the entire community cares for country. There’s plenty more to see in Deni when next we pass this way.

Kolety (Edward River) at Deniliquin

It’s still 3 ½ hours to Temora where I plan to stay tonight, so the rest of the afternoon is spent enjoying the open road and checking into my accommodation.  Dinner is at the highly recommended Shan’s at the bowling club. A chilled bottle of water without having to ask for it is always a good sign. It’s a delicious meal, with a pleasant ambience and uncrowded arrangement of tables. The food is high end in style but with very large portions. The positive recommendations are perfectly warranted. ThoughI think that this style of food is best in smaller portions leaving room for the whole three courses, but I guess sometimes it's necessasry to adapt to the expectations of the clientelle.