Day 4 - Norfolk Coast and Villages

Friday 30 March 2012

I wake early anxious to capture details of our visit to Norwich Cathedral before they become muddied by poor memory and visits to other cathedrals. Long hours of journaling are followed by near despair as the whole of yesterday vanishes unsaved.  Stupid I know better. I resolve to return to sensible, backed up processes in future!

Ultimately its time for breakfast and we join a lovely English couple celebrating an anniversary who also arrived last night and who are also here for three nights. Breakfast was had over a very enjoyable conversation.

I started with some raspberries and blueberries and a small glass of juice. Followed this with kippers and a potato waffle. Hubby had the full English breakfast with black pudding which was a most impressive affair with sausages, bacon, fried bread, tomatoes, mushrooms, baked beans.

Weather forecast is for a high of 16 C. Tomorrow to drop back to a top of 9C so we have decided to rearrange the itinerary and do the coast today. Albeit a fairly late start getting away.  Hubby hasn’t slept very well. No problem with our accommodation, just him.  

We head towards Cromer first up, but as we are passing Alby Crafts we decide to stop and check that out.  The driveway is flanked by a lovely garden and daffodils.  The buildings are all flint and there are birds singing merrily. It is a lovely scene.  We have a quick look at the outlets but find we don’t need long and head on our way.

It’s a pleasant drive and the terrain is quite different from yesterday. More undulations and it is also more wooded.  Just before we arrive in Cromer we pass a magnificent flint mansion. Our confidence in using and stopping on the narrow roads is not yet well developed and so I was unable to get a photograph.. I haven’t given up hope of doing so though. It really was very special and we are back in the area tomorrow evening.

 We spend a good deal of time meandering around in Cromer. The architecture is quite distinctive with nifty turrets. As we stop at the lights I have opportunity to capture one example as well as a close up view of a flint church.

Cromer is quite a pleasant place I thought.  The overcast skies leave the ocean looking rather leaden.  We fail to discover any parking that is not a very very long way away from the pier, and by the time we’re ready to make the decision we decide the pay and display parking we’ve found is a bit further for walking than we’re up for. Hubby points out that my knee could probably use a break today and he’s right of course,.  In one foray of exploration we end up exploring down the coast through Overstrand (very pretty) and Sidestrand is graced by the lovely flint church of St Michael All Saints. Though I have to say we are very lazy in our attempt to capture it.. just snapping quickly as we pass.

Between the coast and the road open there are lovely vistas of open fields and eventually we regain the town and drive up along the ocean front and row upon row of what appear to be guest houses or private hotels. Suddenly we are out of town and we pass along past many caravan or mobile home parks which crust the coastal area.  We drive on, shamelessly wasting an opportunity to explore Sherringham and after passing through a number of communities we spot Cookies crabshop at Salthouse. This has been recommended to us by our host so we pull over and though it is still quite early decide to lunch here.

We wander in and are at something of a loss what to get. The premises are modest but they are doing a steady trade even this early.  With a little guidance from the lady behind the counter we opt for the crab salad and a lobster salad.  The lobsters having just come out from cooking.  and we are upsold on a slice of bread and butter and some mayonnaise.  Hubby gets a Fentiman’s “biologically brewed” ginger beer to whet his whistle This pale and fairly clear ginger beer has a clear ginger flavor. Quite refreshing and not overly sweet.

Our salads are delivered to our small table in the gazebo, which is a plastic sided affair complete with a small heater. A plastic container of malt vinegar and a shaker of pepper are sitting there in readiness.

Each plate of salad is stacked with a wide variety of fish and seafood products artistically arranged. These are accompanied by tomato, cucumber, coleslaw, potato salad and some leaves.  A wedge of lemon and a wedge of lime are the finishing touch.  Our meals are tasty and satisfying and I am again struck by the similarity of both presentation and (some) contents to the meals my grandmother used to prepare. The particular seafood is of course a more local Norfolk variation.  We are glad we stopped here.

Nicely satisfied I spend a moment taking in the wilderness across the road before we continue up the coast to Cley Marshes.

As we approach the Cley Marshes Visitor centre we start to observe people with tripods and spotting scopes, binoculars and so forth walking along the paths among the swaying reeds. On arrival at the complex I’m not overly keen to wander about the marshes without my binoculars, but we decide to head in to the visitor centre for a look.  We browse the items on sale and I spend a little while using the spotting scope over by the huge picture windows along which birders are arrayed. Some eating lunch while gazing longingly out across the marshes. It’s a powerful scope and I easily observe a wide range of waterfowl. I can put names to avocet and shelducks, coots and moorhens but I am a lazy birdwatcher and in any case hubby is not feeling so hot so we’re thinking we’ll head towards home.  Before we leave I snap a photo of the view from the command centre and approach the duty officer who is busily noting the latest sighting for the day on the whiteboard at command post A. 

My question relates to the bittern I saw the other day from the coach.  I have noted here at the marshes visitor centre that they are rather fond of a rare bittern a sighting of which is highly prized. Must be another species that I saw by chance surely so I ask. Turns out there’s only the one species and it is considered entirely possible to see a bittern exposing itself in what would seem an unlikely location for a rare bird sighting.  How’s that! No the birding without my bins has not been shabby at all!

We press on. We head towards Aylsham, but I cannot resist requesting that we head across to Foulsham for a look at some family history related places.  This proved to be a good move because our altered route took us through Briston where we find a petrol station with fuel and no queue of panic buying motorists.  YES!  Doubly good because we find that Melton Constable is a nice place too.

I make a fairly unsuccessful attempt to capture the beauty of the open fields. This whole district reminds me so much of beloved central west of NSW.

Before we know it we’ve come to Hindolveston. This is serious stuff so Hubby pulls up and I hop out to try and capture some reasonable photos.  

The Hindolveston village hall is quite impressive. I stop for a moment at the war memorial and notice that there are a couple of Holseys listed (perhaps they are very distantly connected).

Ah, here my secret is once again betrayed. My family is weird.  As I turn to head to the car I notice the shriveled corpse of a baby bird.  Daughter 2 would love that thinks I. Photos duly follow.

 As we drive through the district we find the drivers are very courteous and give a wave of thanks when you’ve done the right thing and stopped at a wide point to allow them to pass before you proceed.  People in the street too are often friendly and give each other a wave.  We feel very welcome and gee it adds a lovely touch to our visit.

Just outside of Foulsham we take a last minute decision to head up and check out Wood Norton. Along the way we stop on a quiet wide spot so I can walk up to get some photos of the wild primroses.

As I explore Wood Norton on foot a elderly man gives me a friendly wave. I’m loving Norfolk and I’m pleased as punch to be descended from Norfolk natives!

We move on back towards Foulsham. No blood connection here as far as I can prove but my great grandfather’s stepfather’s people were from here. Charles Barber was the stepfather’s name. His father was a bricklayer but died when Charles was barely a teenager.  I do still wonder whether Charles Barber was actually the biological father of my great grandfather. A secret buried in the mists of time. None the less Charles Barber gave his name to my great grandfather and through him to my grandmother.  Which brings me to another thing I’ve noticed while I’ve been here.  There is certainly a “type” resemblance to the people I’ve seen here (particularly the older men) and my Barber relatives. Perhaps it is only fancy but it’s a strange experience really although kind of satisfying too.

We continue with our attempts to get at least one decent landscape shot as we proceed towards Foulsham.  The whole area is crawling with pheasants.  How marvelous! We’ve given up counting them all.

We arrive in Foulsham and have no difficulty locating the war memorial.  Yep. There’s a Barber listed on it.  The church is visible in the distance so we head over there and I hop out to have a look. The church is locked but they have considerately installed glass doors so that it is still possible to look inside.

Foulsham Holy Innocents is a flint church and there is some beautiful detail around the base of the walls.  Family connections aside I’m very pleased to have seen it.
Our next stop is Cawston (dodging pheasants along the way).  We find the local church which appears to no longer be operating as an active place of worship. It is not as impressive an edifice as Holy Innocents, but is still very large and must have been quite an impressive church in it’s day.

Next on the list is Marsham and I’m so pleased to have persisted in the family exploration because to get there we have to pass through an area of woodland.
Marsham doesn’t present with any particular scenes I feel moved to capture so we press on to Buxton.  This is where I believe my great grandfather and his mother were actually born, though family further back were born in Aylsham and indeed my great great grandmother and her father and her son all lived in Aylsham later. Buxton is very small and we are glad to need to retrace our steps because it is a far more atmospheric place on the return!

Back in Aylsham we are delayed parking at the Old Pump House by a workman’s van. I take the opportunity to pay a visit to the antiques shop across the road. Daughter loves her tea and has enthusiastically supported my suggestion that perhaps she’d like an old tea cup from one of our forebear’s places of origin.  This little shop has just the sort of thing I’m looking for. Apparently dating from about 1850 there are some really nice matching trio sets. I go beserk and grab the lot so she can have some options for how many people etc. Not the most convenient souvenir purchase I have to say. We might have to think about posting them home.

It’s a cash only sale so I head via the proffered directions down to the market place to a cash machine. On my return I have quite a nice chat with the proprietor for a while before heading back to collapse! I’m quite anxious about falling further and further behind on my journal but I’m just too tired and sleep instead. .. for about six hours anyway.. then it’s up and the outcome is here to see!

Tomorrow (well actually today.. sigh) we’re staying local and then tonight we’re out and about. The night time writing has had it’s upside though. In daylight I’ve not noticed the regular chiming of the town clock, and it’s been a real pleasure listening to the dawn chorus.  But now it’s off to the land of nod for a while… I hope.

Day 3 - Part 2 - Langham Glass and Holkam, Black Boys Hotel

Following our tour of Norwich Cathedral we head fairly directly back to 38 St Giles, though I can’t resist a bit of a closer look at the covered market along the way.  We consider seeing whether the car hire people can come and pick us up, but in the end decide we’ll just call a cab and be done with it. Good decision.  Our taxi arrives in due course and is a lovely comfy new vehicle.  I feel pangs of regret at leaving Norwich as we pass over a bridge and I see the Norwich playhouse by the water. So much we have had to leave unexplored.

We have a lovely chat along the way and for a second time today Blickling Hall is enthusiastically recommended as a very special place. We will have to try hard to visit there.

It’s after 2pm by the time we are departing from Enterprise Car Rentals on the Cromer Road. We successfully navigate the rather complex roundabout and instruct tomtom to take us to Sculthorpe Boulevard, Fakenham.

It’s a very pleasant drive and we enjoy seeing open range pig farms with lots of little huts for each pig to retreat to. There’s a sign up saying something like “Better conditions. Be proud of British Pork”.  It would certainly appear that piggy lifestyles are vastly superior to what we’ve been seeing in the media at home.  I resolve to include an extra level of enjoyment to my enthusiastic pork consumption over coming days.

We also note with enjoyment the flint construction in the village of Guist. There are beautiful scenes along the way but not a lot of time or for that matter safe stopping opportunities.  Indeed I find that doing justice to the lovely Norfolk villages and landscape is something of a photography challenge. They have a charm and ambience that is very hard to capture.

In due course Tomtom has us turning into a low key industrial development and we have no problem locating Langham Glass.  We um and ah over the selection and to be honest our enthusiasm isn’t helped by observing that the glass shelves are covered in a pretty reasonable layer of dust.  I tell myself that this is irrational, but it really takes the edge of the appeal of the product. Eventually I opt for a kune kune pig as per daughter 2’s request, a whelk for daughter 1 who is really into the ocean and for myself a small Gloucester Old Spot pig and a cute hedgehog.  We are browsing for quite a while and there are a good number of people around who clearly work here but we are completely ignored. This continues well beyond the time when we place our selection on the counter to suggest we’d rather like to buy them. Finally someone deigns to turn attention to us and our transaction slowly proceeds.  We consider whether we should just post our purchases home, but it’s a weight calculation and it would cost rather a lot so we opt for taking them with us.  I have to say that Langham Glass really lets itself down on the visitor experience.  Quite disappointing really.

It’s only a half hour across to the coast and it’s a glorious day so we decide we’ll head on over there for a reccie before heading into Aylsham.  Tom tom is instructed and she cheerfully proceeds to direct us to the locked gate of what we think is an army facility.  It’s not in vain however because just off the road a couple of what I believe are corncrakes wandering about. :o)  We rudely ignore tomtom for a bit until she comes to her senses once we regain the main drag where we came in.

We enjoy meandering along the quiet country lanes.  Tomtom is doing spendidly. I have no idea whether she selected the most sane route, but she takes us through North Creake  and we appreciate it because North Creake is a very lovely flint village.

Along the way there is plentiful birdsong and we see our first pheasants which is very exciting!

At Holkam NNR the pay and display car park has lots of cars and a lot of people are in the process of returning to their cars and heading home. It’s after 4:30 but still clear and bright. One little girl is wrapped in a towel and has clearly been swimming.  Nice day but still quite cold and I guess the water would be cold too. People here are made of sterner material than me that’s for sure. There are birds everywhere and I bitterly regret not having remembered to pick up my binoculars when leaving for the airport. Sigh. Not to worry. We’re doing OK on the bird front anyway.  We decide to just walk to the beach lookout for today then head in to book into our accommodation before it gets too late.

The walk is pleasant and quick. The sea shines blue in the distance. Both time and knee demand we skip the rather lengthy trek to the water from here!

As we approach Aylsham we are struck by the contrasting character of the properties we pass, many of whom have large parcels of land and well tended grounds. Aylsham is presenting very nicely indeed. It doesn’t hurt that we drive right past Blickling Hall either. This positive impression continues and we easily locate The Old Pump House and get settled in with a warm greeting from our host, Marc.  A leisurely cup of coffee and cake for hubby (I display a rare moment of self restraint) then we’re off to Black Boys hotel for some dinner.

We are soon settled at our table in the dining room and hubby is being quizzed as to his beer preference. A long list is provided and naturally we’ve got no pre-existing knowledge of any of them. “What’s the one brewed closest to here?” I pipe up.  “oh, that would be Wherry”.  Wherry it is and again hubby pronounces positive judgement on the local drop.  Apparently he’s not the first to think well of Wherry.  Googling it to check the spelling it appears that this is an award winning beer.

We start with some complimentary breads for the table and chilled water.  We have been warned about portion sizes here but none-the-less we each order two courses.  I go for the Brancaster Moules Mariniere with accompanying bread followed by bangers and mash. Sides of steamed vegetables delivered separately.  Hubby has chosen Leek and potato soup followed by lamb shank and mash.

I won hands down on the entre front. The local mussels arrived in a veritable mountain. This proves not to be as big a problem as I first though. Each shell fish is small and tender and flavoursome. They have been cooked in what appears to be almost pure cream though wine is evident in the flavor along with onion and seasonings. It is totally delicious. Two thumbs up!  Hubby’s soup is also nice but it’s just not in the race with my daily special.

Main courses were also lovely in the meat and mash element. The accompanying sea of gravy was also very flavourful, but there was a gross excess of oil with it.  A strategy of constructing a moat from the potato to control the level of oil and gravy in each mouthful worked quite successfully. We’re too full for dessert.  This is apparently the norm.

It’s just a short walk back to the Old Pump House and we happily settle for the night. 

Day 3 - Part 1 – Norwich lanes and Cathedral

Thursday 29 March 2012 - part 1

We were up and down a little overnight as our bodies adjust to the different time zone. None the less we both got a good amount of rest overall and are feeling revived and fresh  by the time we need to rise and shower etc for breakfast.  38 St Giles has a lovely cosy dining room downstairs. Our table is set with crisp white linen and a decorative black cut out placemat.  The crockery is an eclectic mix among which hubby has the most enormous coffee bowl.  There are two of the delectable morsels waiting and a small but ample jug of freshly squeezed orange juice. Before long our host welcomes us with an extensive menu to select from and takes an order for coffee for hubby. For Hubby the breakfast choice is not difficult. He goes for the full English and this duly arrives with a collection of bacon (beautifully smokey and tender), a couple of dainty pork sausages (delicately flavoured and not overspiced as so many are at home these days) a fried egg that has been cooked to perfection (you get to choose how the eggs are prepared) a generous portion of mushrooms and finally an artistic spray of baby tomatoes that appear to have been roasted.  Delicious.

I find the choice very difficult, but the lure of local bacon wins in the end and I go for the pancakes with bacon which was very nice.  We finish off with a small slice of what feels like home made bread.  This choice has been made with a purpose. We have noticed the array of condiments on one of the wide window sills. Among these is a very very pale coloured honey. Star flower. I have to try that surely.  The flavour of the star flower honey is very mild and subtle. It gives a effect of sweetness without the strong flavour of Australian honey. Interesting. I also sample some thick strawberry jam which is strongly flavoured and full of large pieces of fruit.  A very satisfying breakfast.

We pack up, settle our account and leave our bags while we head into Norwich to run some errands.  We head off past the songbird park and wander into the lanes. Though our walk is purposeful we enjoy some early morning buskers and the hustle and bustle of the town as businesses open and the ice cream stall sets up.  In no time we come to an ancient and impressive gateway. 

A spire is visible and it is clear we have managed to find our way to Norwich Cathedral.  This is enormously distracting and we cannot help but temporarily abandon our errand and wander through the gateway. This brings us into a pretty open area with a swathe of grass, spring flowers and statues of Wellington and Nelson softened by the soft architecture of weeping branches. 

A couple of pied wagtails are hopping about looking lovely.  We decide we just have to come back later on for a tour and bid the cathedral a temporary farewell.

Not ones to willingly backtrack we decide to go via a second, matching gateway and at least be exploring some new lanes as we try again to find Castle Mall and the phone retailers.  Hubby is distracted enjoying the ambience and slips behind. Looking at the photos now I’m not sure what exactly he was trying to capture. Here’s a comparison of which elements of the scene captured my attention compared to what hubby found entrancing.

Hubby's shot

My shot

As we wander around the lanes one of the striking features is pots of miniature daffodils in window boxes and small garden displays.  However the over all ambience and charm of the Lanes is impossible to capture in a photograph. We are enjoying ourselves immensely.

We wander deeper into the lanes past the lovely medieval flint church of St Peter Hungate.

Soon we come to Elm Hill and the Elm Hill Brasserie.  What the? No not heading in remotely the right direction. I guess at this point I should note that I seem to suffer from some sort of disorientation syndrome when I’m in the northern hemisphere.  I really struggle to get my bearings.  The symptoms are clear to see. However I can’t say its an affliction that I’m resenting today.  If it weren’t for my disability we wouldn’t have got to see so much of Norwich.  OK so clearly I’ve been heading in exactly the opposite direction to what I had intended.  That’s easier to fix. We do an about face and set off once more.  After a while I see an encouraging sign. O2.  So we keep on. Gentleman’s walk – yes still travelling well. We resist the temptation to wander off down towards the Castle Museum.. and we resist the lure of the colourful markets that peek at us down another enticing lane and finally BINGO. Castle Mall. But wait, there’s more! We have paused right outside a bag shop with lots of manbags hanging out on display.  Excellent. That’s our other errand for today.  We look them over. I’m checking to see which ones have multiple layers of zips to help foil pickpockets.  We head in to pay and hubby asks the young woman serving whether this really is a manbag.  He’s new to the whole manbag thing and not altogether comfortable with the concept.  Hubby accepts the answer that in truth they get both men and women buying this style of bag.  Hubby decides that this is my bag, he’s just carrying it for me. I don’t care who he thinks owns it. So long as he carries the thing I’m a happy little vegemite.

On to errand no 2. We wander in to the sterile modernity that is the modern shopping mall.  It’s not hard to find the phone outlets and I am impressed to see that they are located very close to one another However I’ve got less than zero interest in agonizing over which company has the best deal. I opt to go with T mobile.  As we enter the shop we are given a friendly greeting by the young men in attendance.  In response to question I reply that “we need a local phone. Just for phone calls. Nothing fancy.  Something cheap and nasty will do just fine”. This amuses one of the guys quite a lot it seems and the ice is broken. We exchange some friendly chat and both the guys are very helpful.  In no time at all we’re on our way with a phone service for a price consistent with discussion on Tripadvisor.  What a relief.
First things first. We call the car hire people and let them know a revised collection time.  This buys us time and it’s about 10 to 11.  The first cathedral tour is 11am. Better get our skates on.  We’re starting to know our way around, so it’s an easy walk back down to the cathedral visitor centre.  An elderly lady greets us as we enter and explains how things work noting that we’re right on time for the tour.  We give a donation. I decided to make it more than the recommended amount as I do appreciate the fact that the charge is optional.  It’s nice to think that those who cannot afford to pay can still participate. I’m happy to pay a little extra.  We wander in and have no trouble identifying our guide. Perhaps it’s the dashing green sash he’s wearing. :o). Hubby and I really love tours like this, that are run by local volunteers generously sharing their passion for the heritage of their community.  Although there are a lot of school groups in the cathedral today we are a small group of 5.  We start with the beginning. The Cathedral was constructed within a 50 year period.  Everyone seems to know that Salisbury Cathedral has the highest spire … a fact that our group happily demonstrates. Well, Norwich Cathedral has the second highest spire!

The stone (limestone) was brought from France.  You know, that’s what impresses me with so much in history. Our forebears were not afraid of an ambitious and costly project.  You want to build a cathedral. You really fancy that nice stone from your home country.  Getting to the construction site is a bit of an issue you need to deal with though. What could be more natural than digging a navigable canal so the material can be brought up to the mason’s yard on the water?

We learned so much on the tour that we would not have noticed on our own. Elements were pointed out that tied the history of the cathedral in with the history of England.  The cathedral was built by the Normans over 900 years ago. Over such a timespan you expect some dramatic events and indeed there have been. This has included fires and the pinkish blush of the limestone which is noticeable in places is an effect that occurs when the limestone is heated to extreme temperature.  

The predominant architectural style is Romanesque though it is colloquially referred to as Norman architecture.  The style is fairly plain but it has a number of subtle features that might go un-noticed were they not pointed out.

Each of the arched “bays” shows a decoration on the interior of the arch. This alternates between a single broad curved column and three columns. 

Similarly on the front of the arch decoration alternates between a single column that ends below the clerestory and twin columns that run all the way to the roof.  There is additional embellishment around the curve of the arch but this also varies on the different levels. The upper curve features a chevron pattern, quite different the carving on above the ground floor arches.

The roof is made of stone. It is not original but was added 400 years after the original construction, along with some buttressing to stop the weight of the roof pushing the walls out. The original roof was made of timber.  Looking at the ceiling today you would never guess because the design is so beautifully compatible with the pre-existing decoration.

Through the ceiling there are a large number of “bosses” featuring carved images that collectively tell the stories representing the whole of the bible.  This is apparently one of the unique features of this cathedral.  Immediately above us we admire the boss of the crucifixion of Jesus which is surrounded by related images such as the soldiers gambling to win Jesus’s clothes.

Around the cathedral there are memorials erected to various individuals.  Nearby to where we are sitting we consider the extraordinary achievement of Osbert Parsley was a (paid) singing man at the Cathedral for over 50 years.  As extraordinary as that achievement may be, what is even more so is that he did those over an extraordinarily tumultuous period.  He began in the reign of Henry VIII continued on through the conversation from roman Catholicism to Church of England. Through the reign of Mary who reverted to the roman church and Elizabeth I back to Protestantism. Clearly Osbert Parsley was a spiritual pragmatist who valued his life!

We move to the rear and spend some time examining the glorious stained glass window.  Each of the panels is explained along with how the relationship of each panel to the others serves as a guide to the interpretation of what is depicted.  The colour is very rich and vibrant having been cleaned not so long ago. 

Almost all of the stained glass in the cathedral dates from the 19^th century, however we also see a window that dates from the medieval period.  This is far more subtle in the colouring but equally beautiful.

There are a number of spaces where individuals have at one point or another established smaller chapels.  We admire some beautiful carving in a space where one such chapel was installed (and later removed).  The intent of the chapel was to provide a space where people could pray for the soul of the wealthy individual in question.

Our tour moves on and we learn about the images depicted in the small amount of remaining artwork of the original ceilings. Such images covered all of the ceilings but were removed in the vandalism committed by the puritans who went on a destructive rampage across the country removing what they considered to be idolatory.  Such vandalism also included the destruction of many glorious rood screens.  Way to get yourselves persecuted!  

A short distance away is the vertical burial site of Thomas Gooding which is a curious feature that contains a warning to all that we will all end up in a similar condition.

There are also elements of humour pointed out. Including a beautifully carved white hart sitting in water which is a mildly amusing play on the name of some wealthy personage whose name I can’t remember.

We move through an impressive gateway into the gloriously carved quire.  This is where the Benedictine monks would come to pray and sing (or should that be to sing prayers?) in what I can only describe as a punishing schedule of worship.

A great feature of the quire is the collections of misericords.  Yes. I finally learn what a misericord is! Norwich Cathedral has a complete set.  Most are ancient but they had the final four required to complete the set carved not so long ago.  There are a couple of elements to this completion of the set which are remarkable.  Firstly that the skills required to carve the misericords are still available today and secondly the subject matter selected which reflects the modern context. Misericords have secular subject matter because it wouldn’t be appropriate to have someone sit on something of religious significance.  The most memorable of the modern misericords features soccer.. sorry …football imagery and in particular a particular player/coach who is not only representative of the beloved “canaries” is also highly revered for his years of fundraising for leukemia research.  One of the more ancient misericords features a child bent over the knee of an adult and having it’s bare bottom spanked!

Next item as we move on our tour is an ancient lectern which was saved from the vandalous rampages of the reformation by being buried in the grounds.  It originally had baby pelicans as part of the ornament but these have not been recovered… yet…  The pelican is attacking it’s own breast to draw blood to feed its young and this is representative of the sacrifice of Christ.  The metal with which the pelican lectern is made is, if memory serves, called laten (?)

These glorious windows were part of improvements included in reconstruction works after one of the tower collapses. The work required buttressing as mentioned previously. What a glory such windows are.

Though there is much history in evidence around the cathedral it is clear that it is not and has never been a static work.  The life of the cathedral is reflected in both its structure and its treasures.  The treasured items include items that speak to the history and culture of the city.  We have noted earlier a new copper font which was given to the cathedra after the fairly recent closure of the production of Mackintosh’s rolo’s in Norwich. The font is constructed from one of the vats used in the process.

Here is another modern work located next to the grave of Bishop Losinga. It represents Bishop Losinga and makes reference to the fact that he bought his bishopric.  The Pope did not approve of these goings on and Bishop Losinga was summoned to Rome accused of the sin of Simony and as penance was commanded to return and build this cathedral.  You can see a devil carrying bags of money in the upper left hand side of the panel.

Somewhere along the way in this general area we have a couple of embedded musket balls pointed out.  Hundreds of years after the violence and destruction these physical remains in the casket and in the floor really bring another level of appreciation to the violence that has been inflicted in and on this place.

Here we have another of the treasures of the cathedral that survived the reformation by being disguised as a table with the glorious artworks hidden on the underside. The disguise was sufficient that this treasure remained as a table for a couple of hundred years before someone found it and it was returned to its original location in the Cathedral.

In the same chapel the more ancient of the cathedral fonts is also found. This is a seven sided affair and reflects a style which is considered to be of Norfolk origin as almost all of this style of font are found in Norfolk.  There are a couple of others, but it seems that they were modeled on the Norfolk fonts.

We pass by the bishops throne and see that a reliquary was situated beneath the throne with a flue so that the influence of the holy relics could float up and provide inspiration and guidance to the bishop in the conduct of his duties.

The tour does not discuss it, but I fall behind as I linger to spend a few brief moments on the Chapel of St Saviour which is the chapel dedicated to the Royal Norfolk Regiment and Royal Anglian Regiment.

I catch up to the group as the church treasury display is pointed out. Most items on display belong to other churches, but have been put here for safe keeping.

We emerge out into the cloisters via the priory door. This is heavily ornamented with carvings of various saints.

In the above image you can see the seats where the monks would sit to do their work.  Illuminations and so forth were all completed in this area.  Each day the monks would assemble in the chapter house and a chapter of the bible would be read (hence the name) then each monk would be assigned his daily tasks and emerge here to sit and work.  Almost the entire cathedral complex was unheated.  The exception was a small warming room where up to about 6 monks could retreat to stave off hypothermia!

At the end of this side modestly sized room is pointed out as the monks infirmary.  Also nearby this corner is a gap through which we see a large grassy area.  This is where the monks were buried and the gap gives access for the body to be moved from the infirmary into the burial plot.

We walk along to the next corner and here our attention is brought to a small trough where the monks would wash.  The trough was designed such that a natural stream runs through it continually.  Here the monks would also shave their tonsures.

Above the trough statues of King George V and Queen Mary have been placed to commemorate a royal visit.  In the alcove next to this are statues of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth.

Next we come to a carved ceiling boss which has a special significance to Norwich Cathedral. Look closely and you can see an open door.  Traditionally there was always provision for pilgrims to be welcomed and accommodated free of charge.  Norwich Cathedral is apparently singular in its determination to be true to this tradition. It is for this reason that there is no mandatory payment for access or tours. I am now especially glad that we donated more than the minimum!

I take the opportunity to capture a photo of the tower and spire.  Some of the many school kids visiting today enjoy the beautiful sunny weather.

Our tour concluded it’s now just after 12 oclock.  Hubby is keen to lunch in the new refectory because he has an expectation that the proceeds will help the Cathedral.  We avail ourselves of the new amenities and having perused the menu conveniently provided on the lower level, climb the stairs and enter the café.  The café is a beautiful open space full of light and with high windows providing glimpses of the tower. There is much beautiful wood and glass.  As we enter we are welcomed by a friendly elderly lady who is working here today. We move ahead and select some drinks. I could not resist the Owlet Cox and Bramley apple juice (from Kent) and encouraged hubby to have a try of the Dandelion and Burdock by Breckland Orchard - a local company.

We receive similarly friendly service as we order our meals from a young man who confirms that it is a lovely space to work in.  He goes on to mention that part of the perks is that a pair of peregrine falcons have decided to nest on the tower.  Last year their eggs didn’t hatch but they are trying again this year and everyone is waiting anxiously to see if they have better success this time.  Live coverage of the nest action is updated to a large screen in the refectory every 7 mins.

We take a seat and sample our drinks while we wait for our meals.  Oh my! The cox and bramley apple juice is a revelation. Sensational!  At that moment I feel like I never knew apple juice could be soooo delicious.  I have outraged images of the vile reconstituted “Popper” juice packs so commonly consumed at home. Sacrilege!  On more rational reflection later I have to acknowledge that we do have some very fine apple juice well suited to appreciation from fine crystal shot glasses (as you do) ..though I have to say I can only imagine what delights preshafruit could turn out if we had cox and bramley apples to work with!

Hubby interrupts my raptures with some encouragement to sample his Dandelion and Burdock.  Mmm. Subtle and we think somewhat reminiscent of sarsaparilla but not so strong or as hubby put it “it’s a bit like sarsaparilla but actually nice”. There’s a hint of aniseed to it.  Very different.

Before long our meals arrive. I have gone for the Smoked fish and horseradish rarebit with watercress salad £6 and Hubby has opted for the Chicken and pea risotto finished with truffle oil and fresh parmesan (gluten free) £7. Our drinks were £2. We both enjoyed our meals very much.

Days1-2 - England - Sydney to Norwich

We have safely arrived in Norwich after travelling for something like 30 hrs from Sydney after a late afternoon departure. We did get some sleep on the plane but not much so we were both fairly tired to say the least.  We touched down just after 06:30 at Heathrow and had navigated border control and customs arrangements; found the central bus station and were happily settled in the lounge area watching the indicator boards for our coach service by 7:46 am. Beautifully timed for the 8:15 bus to Norwich.
There is a prohibition on entering the UK with a range of meat/dairy/plant materials. I kept looking for the xrays etc for quarantine/customs but apparently they rely on people remembering and being honest about what they are carrying. Bit of a contrast to the routine bag searches and sniffer dogs we have on our quarantine screening at home!   It's a looong walk to the metro or coach departure point. Our bags are heavy and I envied the people who had the sense to buy bags with four wheels rather than two.
Although taking the coach and coming on all the way out to Norwich was additional travel on an already long flight, it was a nice alternative to the plane and we enjoyed watching the scenery along the way. Daffodils are flowering everywhere at the moment and small shrubby plants on the roadside are a mass of white blossoms..There are also other massed displays in rich dark yellow which I think may have been gorse and consequently reminded me of New Zealand.  Hubby's first comment was that the quality of the light and the overall look of the landscape reminds him of Tasmania. This resemblance is a big part of why Tassie is very popular as a holiday destination at home.
We have arrived on a mild clear day with blue skies. In the morning as we leave Heathrow there is that lovely bite in the air. Not a lot of wind. It looks like it will be a glorious day.
Most branches are still bare with only occasional green emerging.  This had a couple of consequences. 1. Birds are easier to see :o) and 2. So is the plentiful litter! :o(
On the bird front I saw at least 6 magpies in  dapper black and white. My internet searching says that magpies aren't a very popular bird due to their life habits. Well, they're a very pretty bird at least.  The most common bird were the rooks which were in large numbers. In one spot there was a great collection of nests and rooks were gathering nesting material, striding across the ground as though participating in a great ceremonial ritual.
There were also quite a lot of woodpigeons about, both flying and foraging.  I was quite surprised to actually manage to spot what I believe was a robin sitting large as life on the bare branches of a small tree as we passed. It would have remained as an unidentified LBB (little brown bird) except I turned to look back to it and there was it's pretty red breast clear to see.
At one point near some dense undergrowth there were two very plump (and edible looking) birds on the ground) but we passed too quickly to really get a good look. Happily, this was not the case when we were passing what looked like some sort of irrigation or draining ditch where a bittern was stalking about not far from the road. On the mammal front, I believe I saw a fox not too far from the two anonymous edible birds. So all in all the wildlife viewing was not too shabby at all!
Along our journey we have stopped by Stansted airport. The traffic moved freely and was a mix of trucks and lorries generously complemented by a range of high end cars. Porche, Jaguar. Audi. and so on. mostly European makes and models driven by suit bedecked men.
As we get out of town there is a sign announcing the National Stud and horse racing museum. I enjoyed seeing a number of groups of riders exercising their horses in large spaces generously equipped with white fencing and white metal rails. Then a large race track with a large modern stand.  Finally the mystery is solved when a sign says "Newmarket".
The sun is up and the warmth of the day is evident by the time we are passing through Thetford. People of all ages are out and about enjoying the sun. A group of young mums with their babies sit by the Little Ouse River which meanders between neat banks through the town.  An older couple wander slowly along by the canal and across the way an adult helps a child feed the ducks which are paddling. Looking further afield the river passes under a pretty little bridge and overhanging branches. Construction hoardings nearby to the coach stop illustrate plans for a revamp of this historic/cultural precinct. The potential of the area is plain to see. The coach slowly turns and navigates through the narrow streets giving us a close up view of some flint fences and buildings along the way. A short while later we see some prominent very well weathered ruins over behind an area of modern housing. This would appear to be Thetford Priory.
Back on the road we pass a couple of large free range piggeries with some fairly happy looking pigs nosing about in feed dispensers or lolling about on the dirt.  The signs following include warnings about a live firing range and in time announce St George's Distillery English whisky.
In the route the coach takes, Attleborough presents well. Again it is clear that the locals are enjoying the lovely mild sunny day. A couple of girls exit the bakery. An elderly man walks purposefully by the post office. A mother pushes a pram.
As we head on to Norwich, fields of bright yellow rapeseed (canola?) are beginning to flower. Already beautiful they will be quite spectacular in a week or so. It's not long until we come to the outskirts of Norwich and drive past some large houses on large blocks. The area looks affluent and the houses quite well kept. Finally we pull up in Norwich at a central transport hub. We find a map and photograph it for future reference.  There is a handy taxi rank out on St Stephens road, but hubby is recommending we just walk to 38 St Giles. Good exercise after such a long period of sitting doing nothing. I agree and we set off. It's not long before I retrieve my broad brimmed hat. I hate the sun glaring in my eyes.  We plod along and get a bit nervous so again, on hubby's suggestion we decide to consult the tom tom. We trudge on and on. Hmm. Show me that tom tom.  It thinks we're a car and I suggest we probably don't need to go this long and circuitous route. Still, we have seen the old city walls along the way. We think for ourselves and cross the busy road via the underpass. We emerge  into a large garden/park, once again full of people taking the sun. Trudge trudge trudge.Swap arms with the luggage dragging. I'm getting increasingly hot and bothered. (send sympathies to my long suffereing hubby!). I'm in light jeans and a t-shirt but I'm plenty warm enough.  As we cut across to St Giles Street we pause momentarily to enjoy the performance of a small but wonderfully melodious song bird in the bare branches of a fairly large tree.  Superb. Eventually we find 38 St Giles and retreat thankfully into the cool interior. I have to admit it: despite the bitching and moaning hubby has been subjected to along the way; aching knee and now elbows too, I do feel better for the walk! It's about 12:30 and our room is ready if we'd like to freshen up.
Our host offers to bring our bags up in a minute and meanwhile he'll show us up.  Why waste the stair climbing, so hubby and I each grab our "carry on" luggage. Hmm I might christen my bag Sid..Hubby's bag can be Charles Hawtrey . haha.  Anyway with Sid and Charles taken care of, our host then decides he may as well bring a bag now as well.  In the room our hospitable host has a question Tea? Coffee? Coffee for hubby.. and a couple of delectable little morsels which we share light flaking pastry with custard and apple slices arrayed on top. Mmm. That hits the spot...but something more substantial is also in order.  My knee has been sore since the flight. It apparently did not enjoy just sitting, so I'm not keen on wandering over to Elm Hill for lunch which was one option I noted when planning.  We ask for lunch recommendations.  We've passed a place just down the street a little which looked nice, but is it any good?. Having tried the place numerous times unfortunately the most recent experience was again a problem and our host finds himself unable to recommend it. However, just up the street is Roger Hickman's which our host says is the best restaurant in Norwich and has an excellent lunch option which is great value. Does it what!  Our host phones ahead to be sure there's a table available, but it's not expected to be a problem. I change my top and shoes  and off we trot up past a couple of galleries and a book shop.. a nice medieval church with grounds displaying modern young adults shirts off or skimpily clad soaking up the sun. Reminds me a bit of the opportunism of galahs. The lightest fall of rain and they start hanging upside down presenting themselves for a natural shower! I think too of a former boss who lived a year or so in London and did once mention that this is what happens over here when the sun comes out. Lunch hours present a spectacle of office workers out soaking up the rays... but I digress.
Happily seated in Roger Hickmans we order water for the table and hubby opts for a St Peters Best bitter which is rich and dark and has a delicious light aroma. Hubby pronounces it "lovely". Rare praise.  This is delivered chilled and comes in an awesome oval green bottle which is a replica of a bottle from 1770 information about which is provided on the label.  I decide this bottle will be my first souvenir. Food selections duly made we proceed to tuck into:
Chef's appetiser which is a deliciously light and refreshing soup of peas with mint in a sweet little white straight sided jug. This is accompanied by two delicious warm rolls and a pat of butter at precisely the right temperature. In the interests of brevity I'll just say everything was fabulous and a fixed price of 22 pounds! Talk about value!
Me: Roast smoked salmon with Cauliflower puree and caper sauce (it also had little tempura cauliflower florets) followed by Fillet and Belly of Pork with confit cabbage and a port  jus;
Hubby: Chicken liver parfait with smoked venison and pickled mushrooms followed by Roast cod with red onion marmalade, chickpea and chorizo casserole and deep fried squid.
Dessert was, if possible, even better than the starters and mains: both were presented as a de-constructed assemblage of elements. Both were simply outstanding:
Me: Baked apple with burnt honey creme brulee. This also included wafers of delectable tender pastry. Kicking myself in hindsight because though I wondered when eating, I forgot to ask what variety the apples were.
Hubby: Lime cheesecake with Lime Jelly and Chocolate sorbet. The cheesecake "crust' was a rich chocolatey biscuit crumble.
Roger Hickman's is definitely highly recommended for lunch!!
We're done with lunch by 3:05 and take our time heading back to our room half heartedly snapping a couple of photos and wondering if we should walk over to the cathedral. In the end I decide I had best rest or tomorrow could be ugly.  We are asleep in no time! What a comfy bed. What snuggly comfy pillows. .No book required. zzzzzz

I wake ahead of hubby and note that it's 7:30 pm. So much for evensong at the Cathedral! I'd be happy to just go back to sleep but I'm a tad hungry and don't want to wake at 3 am ravenous.
I muck about on the computer and hubby wakes. We decide we'll walk across the road to the Waffle House. It's quite busy and has a buzzy sort of atmosphere. One of the reviewers on TA describe the Waffle House as a Norwich institution, which of course makes it tempting to tourists such as myself. Our waitress is bright and friendly and serves us promptly after a brief wait while they clear a nearby table for us. This time hubby decides to sample Fuller's (organic) Honey Dew Golden Beer. Best served chilled. The beer fulfils the promise of the name and is a beautiful golden amber in colour. Very little head at all. Hubby makes another pronouncement of "lovely".
Onto the food:
Share: small garlic butter waffle. Interesting. Qute nice. Very light and crispy waffle.
Hubby: Ham, cheese and mushroom waffle. Lovely ham. I don't do mushrooms, but hubby says they are lovely too.
Me: Hummous and Avocado waffle hold the sweet chilli drizzle. Balsamic instead? Ok. The balsamic is very sweet and strong. Hommous is very light and delicately flavoured.  Hmm. not sure about the flavour combinations on this waffle. Olives, semi-dried tomato, rocket in the mix as well.  Different. Not sure I'd choose that again.
Dessert menu?  You bet.
Hubby: Banoffee, with ice cream, cream and nuts. Delicious. The small portion option is ample.
Me: Dutch spiced (bramley) apples with plump Australian sultanas, add ice cream.  Mmmm delicous. Bramley apple has the right acid/sweetness mix. wonderful. We are out of there for food only 33.80. Good value.
I should go straight back to bed, but decide to do my reviews promptly. Then I decide I'll just do a quiet bit of journalling.. haha. Yeah right. Off to bed just past local time 1 am.  Body clock time more like 11 am. sigh. Brekky is requested at 7:30 am local time.  Oh well. I seldom sleep more than 6 hrs anyhow. Hubby's been snoring for a couple of hours already which is good. He's driving tomorrow.
On the face of it we haven't done that much on our first day here.. but on the other hand we have done plenty.  A great start for our trip.  Always best to begin with a superb meal :o)

Our European trip plan

We are off on an epic trip. Hopefully not the trip of a lifetime, but certainly the longest and most ambitious trip we've taken so far. The destinations are my choice. Hubby is largely a  passenger. Here's hoping we don't get too homesick. Here's a summary of the trip outline.
At the most basic:
1 night Norwich
3 nights Aylsham, Norfolk
2 nights Stamford, Lincolnshire
9 nights London
5 nights Amsterdam
5 nights Paris
4 nights - tour with Bartletts Battlefield Journeys
1 night Ramsgate
1 night Royal Tunbridge Wells
2 nights Brighton
1 night Salisbury
2 nights Stoughton Cross, Somerset
1 night Bath.

We are looking forward to so many things it's hard to pick anticipated highlights but certainly Anzac Day at Villers Brettoneaux and visiting the battlefields will certainly be up there and seeing the tulips at Keukenhof. Various palaces and stately homes and the Mall and of course places of family origin will all be very special I'm sure.

There's a lot we still won't have time for even though we've taken 6 weeks. The Cotswolds and Blenheim, as well as Oxford will have to wait for a hoped for next time which we intend will involve a circle up to Scotland and back down through the area around Ironbridge Gorge and back in to Heathrow via the Cotswold.

Only a week and a half to go until we fly out so we're just in the final stages of checking the luggage and clearing the notebook memory to make room for photos. Our driving play list has been supplemented with some appropriate theme music that reflects the various place's we'll be visiting.

I can't believe departure time has come around so quickly!